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Educational articles

Articles

AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles

The Evolution of guide Training at the American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

...system that is unusually deep, continuous, and mentorship-driven. Entry Requirements for New AAI Guides Before beginning work, entry-level guides must… Read More

Training for Cascades programs

American Alpine Institute

Getting Fit for Alpinism: Preparing for Your First American Alpine Institute Program Starting an alpinism course can be both exhilarating… Read More

Climb Denali / Climb McKinley with American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

...weather window to strike for the summit. Preparation and Prerequisites Climbing Denali is a “PhD-level” mountaineering objective. To ensure the… Read More

Rock Climbing with Kids

American Alpine Institute

“Daddy,” my then elementary-school son said. “Can we go to the rock gym today…? “I don’t wanna go to the… Read More

Best Mountaineering and Climbing books

American Alpine Institute

...Alive in Avalanche Terrain (Bruce Tremper) — One of the most widely recommended avalanche safety texts, breaking down snowpack evaluation,… Read More

Feeling Nervous About an AAI Course? You’re Not Alone—and You’re Probably Ready

American Alpine Institute

...learners, not superheroes. While some programs require prior experience, many AAI courses are built specifically for people who are: New… Read More

Extending Your Rappel

American Alpine Institute

...some places where it’s not terribly useful or realistic (like in a sport setting), but in trad and multi-pitch settings,… Read More

Backpacking with Kids

American Alpine Institute

So here’s the deal…  I’m an outdoor enthusiast and a mountain guide.  When my kids were little, it was incredibly… Read More

American Alpine Institute Values and philosophy

American Alpine Institute

...Practice Leave No Trace techniques in travel, camping, climbing and skiing. Develop an understanding and acceptance of climbing and mountaineering… Read More

The Rules of Glissading

American Alpine Institute

What is a Glissade? In short, glissading is sliding on snow. It is an incredibly fun endeavor. Indeed, it’s all… Read More

Red Rock Rendezvous

American Alpine Institute

...and educational as you can imagine. What was Mountain Gear? Mountain Gear was a privately held outdoor equipment and apparel… Read More

Stewardship and the American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

Overview The American Alpine Institute has a long-standing commitment to advocacy and action in support of outdoor recreation, mountain education,… Read More

Solo Backcountry Skiing and Splitboarding

American Alpine Institute

...matters too. Use breadcrumb tracking on your inReach or satellite communicator, and secure that device somewhere internal where it won’t… Read More

Diamox – The Wonder Drug?

American Alpine Institute

...because it doesn’t interrupt your sleep. Alternatives Some research indicates that Ginkgo Biloba may work in acclimatization. As this is… Read More

Can You Climb While Pregnant?

American Alpine Institute

...pregnant climbers to consider. EQUIPMENT: A harness that avoids abdominal pressure is key—options like the Petzl 8003 Full-Body Harness or… Read More

Alpine Difficulty Grade Scales

American Alpine Institute

...more you understand about the systems that are there, the better you’ll be able to asses them for yourself. Resources:… Read More

Rock Climbing Grade Comparison Chart

American Alpine Institute

In the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System. This is a rating system used primarily in North America… Read More

Ice Axe Positions and Alpine Ice Climbing

American Alpine Institute

Alpine ice climbing is the art of moving over steep, frozen terrain high in the mountains. Unlike waterfall ice, which… Read More

Climbing Class and Commitment Grade

American Alpine Institute

In the mountains, numbers can feel deceptively simple. A climb is labeled “Class 3” or “Grade III,” and suddenly people… Read More

Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers

American Alpine Institute

...your hair stands on end or you hear buzzing in your climbing helmet or trekking poles, that’s not just nerves… Read More