Belaying: A Brief History
American Alpine Institute
Belaying is one of the most fundamental skills in climbing, providing protection and safety for climbers as they ascend rock,… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
The Evolution of guide Training at the American Alpine Institute
American Alpine Institute
...system that is unusually deep, continuous, and mentorship-driven. Entry Requirements for New AAI Guides Before beginning work, entry-level guides must… Read More
Training for Cascades programs
American Alpine Institute
Getting Fit for Alpinism: Preparing for Your First American Alpine Institute Program Starting an alpinism course can be both exhilarating… Read More
Climb Denali / Climb McKinley with American Alpine Institute
American Alpine Institute
...weather window to strike for the summit. Preparation and Prerequisites Climbing Denali is a “PhD-level” mountaineering objective. To ensure the… Read More
Rock Climbing with Kids
American Alpine Institute
...Gym Perhaps the best way to introduce a child to climbing is through a rock gym. There are often two… Read More
Best Mountaineering and Climbing books
American Alpine Institute
...gym and outdoor climbers working all styles from bouldering to long multipitch routes. Climbing instruction Rock Climbing Rock Climbing: Mastering… Read More
Backcountry Meal Planning Guide
American Alpine Institute
...food per person per day. For alpine climbing or summit pushes, daily intake often trends toward the higher end of… Read More
LGBTQ Travel to American Alpine Institute Program areas
American Alpine Institute
...exposure is a distinct factor in Tanzania. Careful preparation, situational awareness, and conservative public behavior are essential for minimizing risk… Read More
Feeling Nervous About an AAI Course? You’re Not Alone—and You’re Probably Ready
American Alpine Institute
...learners, not superheroes. While some programs require prior experience, many AAI courses are built specifically for people who are: New… Read More
Extending Your Rappel
American Alpine Institute
Over the years people have slowly moved from rappelling off the harness to rappelling on an extension. Below are two… Read More
Backpacking with Kids
American Alpine Institute
So here’s the deal… I’m an outdoor enthusiast and a mountain guide. When my kids were little, it was incredibly… Read More
American Alpine Institute Values and philosophy
American Alpine Institute
...accept the serious responsibility of mountain partnerships, to understand mountain environments and the threats to them, and to develop preservationist… Read More
The Rules of Glissading
American Alpine Institute
...the best thing to do is to err on the side of caution. Though you might be tired, sometimes walking… Read More
Red Rock Rendezvous
American Alpine Institute
...and educational as you can imagine. What was Mountain Gear? Mountain Gear was a privately held outdoor equipment and apparel… Read More
Stewardship and the American Alpine Institute
American Alpine Institute
Overview The American Alpine Institute has a long-standing commitment to advocacy and action in support of outdoor recreation, mountain education,… Read More
American Alpine Institute History
American Alpine Institute
...Alaska Range technical route on Mt. Hunter in 1981. AAI and the American Mountain Guides Association AAI has also played… Read More
Solo Backcountry Skiing and Splitboarding
American Alpine Institute
...matters too. Use breadcrumb tracking on your inReach or satellite communicator, and secure that device somewhere internal where it won’t… Read More
Diamox – The Wonder Drug?
American Alpine Institute
...tool that will help you to get up high. Another, and perhaps far more important tool, is to use good… Read More
Can You Climb While Pregnant?
American Alpine Institute
...input prior to climbing…especially if climbing includes bouldering or leading, places where bodily harm might be more likely. Key Considerations… Read More
Alpine Difficulty Grade Scales
American Alpine Institute
...more you understand about the systems that are there, the better you’ll be able to asses them for yourself. Resources:… Read More
Rock Climbing Grade Comparison Chart
American Alpine Institute
In the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System. This is a rating system used primarily in North America… Read More
Ice Axe Positions and Alpine Ice Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Alpine ice climbing is the art of moving over steep, frozen terrain high in the mountains. Unlike waterfall ice, which… Read More
Climbing Class and Commitment Grade
American Alpine Institute
In the mountains, numbers can feel deceptively simple. A climb is labeled “Class 3” or “Grade III,” and suddenly people… Read More
Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers
American Alpine Institute
Every summer, climbers and hikers head into the mountains chasing blue skies, granite, and adventure. But sometimes, those same skies… Read More
