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Educational articles

Articles

AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles

Belaying: A Brief History

American Alpine Institute

Belaying is one of the most fundamental skills in climbing, providing protection and safety for climbers as they ascend rock,… Read More

The Evolution of guide Training at the American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

...glaciers Wilderness First Responder (WFR) certification Completion of at least two AMGA courses (aligned with AMGA Scope of Practice) Avalanche… Read More

Training for Cascades programs

American Alpine Institute

Getting Fit for Alpinism: Preparing for Your First American Alpine Institute Program Starting an alpinism course can be both exhilarating… Read More

Climb Denali / Climb McKinley with American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

...weather window to strike for the summit. Preparation and Prerequisites Climbing Denali is a “PhD-level” mountaineering objective. To ensure the… Read More

Rock Climbing with Kids

American Alpine Institute

...looking for in a good crag: a reasonable staging area and routes that are appropriate for children. The staging area… Read More

Best Mountaineering and Climbing books

American Alpine Institute

...Our curated mountaineering reading list covers climbing training, rock and ice climbing techniques, alpine skills, backcountry skiing and avalanche safety,… Read More

Feeling Nervous About an AAI Course? You’re Not Alone—and You’re Probably Ready

American Alpine Institute

...learners, not superheroes. While some programs require prior experience, many AAI courses are built specifically for people who are: New… Read More

Extending Your Rappel

American Alpine Institute

Over the years people have slowly moved from rappelling off the harness to rappelling on an extension. Below are two… Read More

Backpacking with Kids

American Alpine Institute

So here’s the deal…  I’m an outdoor enthusiast and a mountain guide.  When my kids were little, it was incredibly… Read More

American Alpine Institute Values and philosophy

American Alpine Institute

Founding and Leadership The American Alpine Institute has been focused on mountain education from the very beginning. When Dunham Gooding… Read More

The Rules of Glissading

American Alpine Institute

...the best thing to do is to err on the side of caution. Though you might be tired, sometimes walking… Read More

Red Rock Rendezvous

American Alpine Institute

...and educational as you can imagine. What was Mountain Gear? Mountain Gear was a privately held outdoor equipment and apparel… Read More

Stewardship and the American Alpine Institute

American Alpine Institute

Overview The American Alpine Institute has a long-standing commitment to advocacy and action in support of outdoor recreation, mountain education,… Read More

Solo Backcountry Skiing and Splitboarding

American Alpine Institute

...matters too. Use breadcrumb tracking on your inReach or satellite communicator, and secure that device somewhere internal where it won’t… Read More

Diamox – The Wonder Drug?

American Alpine Institute

...tool that will help you to get up high. Another, and perhaps far more important tool, is to use good… Read More

Can You Climb While Pregnant?

American Alpine Institute

...input prior to climbing…especially if climbing includes bouldering or leading, places where bodily harm might be more likely. Key Considerations… Read More

Alpine Difficulty Grade Scales

American Alpine Institute

...more you understand about the systems that are there, the better you’ll be able to asses them for yourself. Resources:… Read More

Rock Climbing Grade Comparison Chart

American Alpine Institute

In the United States, we use the Yosemite Decimal System. This is a rating system used primarily in North America… Read More

Ice Axe Positions and Alpine Ice Climbing

American Alpine Institute

Alpine ice climbing is the art of moving over steep, frozen terrain high in the mountains. Unlike waterfall ice, which… Read More

Climbing Class and Commitment Grade

American Alpine Institute

In the mountains, numbers can feel deceptively simple. A climb is labeled “Class 3” or “Grade III,” and suddenly people… Read More

Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers

American Alpine Institute

Every summer, climbers and hikers head into the mountains chasing blue skies, granite, and adventure. But sometimes, those same skies… Read More