Climbing Class and Commitment Grade
American Alpine Institute
...see this in a route description, refer to the section in the guidebook entitled, “how to use this book.” Often… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles
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- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers
American Alpine Institute
Every summer, climbers and hikers head into the mountains chasing blue skies, granite, and adventure. But sometimes, those same skies… Read More
Denali Summit Strategies & Mountain Flexibility
American Alpine Institute
The American Alpine Institute has been guiding Denali since 1980. We have an extremely high success rate, as well as… Read More
Why Climb Denali (Mt. McKinley) with American Alpine Institute?
American Alpine Institute
Climbing Denali with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) isn’t just about reaching North America’s highest summit—it’s about doing it the… Read More
Deep Snow Immersion: Tree Wells and Moats
American Alpine Institute
...an article by Jason D. Martin in Adventures Northwest. Ski with a Partner First and foremost, skiing with a partner… Read More
Toprope Solo Techniques
American Alpine Institute
...alpinism. The route she was trying to complete that day was a 17-pitch 5.11+. It is common for those trying… Read More
Micro Cam Considerations
American Alpine Institute
Micro cams live in the world of finger cracks and below—tiny constrictions where larger gear simply won’t go. These cams… Read More
Simul-Climbing Technique
American Alpine Institute
Simul-climbing is an advanced climbing technique where two climbers move up a route at the same time while tied to… Read More
Women Who Conquered the Outdoors:
American Alpine Institute
...Shiraishi became the youngest person (male or female) to climb a sport route rated 5.14d/5.15a, and she was the first… Read More
Mt. Shuksan Climbing Guide: Top 3 Routes Explained
American Alpine Institute
...routes and alpine ice climbing, its diverse terrain offers challenges and thrills for every level of mountaineer. Sulphide Glacier Grade… Read More
The Seven Summits
American Alpine Institute
...technical climbing routes to the summit that avoid the most heavily used camps, preserving some of the wilderness experience of… Read More
Top Backcountry Skiing Routes and Objectives in the North Cascades
American Alpine Institute
...some new routes. The prime time for this kind of skiing is usually December through March. Shuksan Arm Lake Anne… Read More
North Cascades Climbing and Mountaineering Objectives: From Beginner Routes to Advanced Adventures
American Alpine Institute
...for Building Experience and Confidence The climbs at this level are not technical, and they only require previous backpacking experience… Read More
Summit Mt. Baker: A Guide to the Easton, Squak, and Coleman-Deming Routes
American Alpine Institute
...route for your climb. Not sure you want to tackle Mt. Baker on your own? We have guided climbs available!… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
...West Ridge. The AAI team succeeded in the second ascent via the same route on October 4, 2006. Following are… Read More
50 Classic Climbs
American Alpine Institute
...of the commercial guiding industry, both in climbing itself and in the technical education of climbers, has subtly shifted our… Read More
Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
Red Rock Super-Classic: Epinephrine
American Alpine Institute
...on Community Pillar. The last difficult pitch of the climb was completely enclosed deep inside Magic Mountain. And at the… Read More
Kilimanjaro Trek: Good Living on the Top of Africa
American Alpine Institute
AAI Program Coordinator Hard-core alpinists beware: This is not a thrilling story of alpine bravery, nor is it an… Read More
Rock Shoes: Board-Lasted vs. Slip-Lasted
American Alpine Institute
...individual at the climbing shop. “Dude, you need shoes that hurt,” he tells you. “They should be at least two… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
...already available on the internet, but much of it does not apply to taking cameras up mountains where conditions are… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...factor, and we recommend that you book early to accommodate your schedule. The core curricula of the longer instructional courses… Read More
Crevasse Rescue – Introduction
American Alpine Institute
Climbs on large and complex glaciers always entail a risk of crevasse falls. Unlike a fall in rock climbing, where… Read More
