Climbing Class and Commitment Grade
American Alpine Institute
In the mountains, numbers can feel deceptively simple. A climb is labeled “Class 3” or “Grade III,” and suddenly people… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers
American Alpine Institute
...your hair stands on end or you hear buzzing in your climbing helmet or trekking poles, that’s not just nerves… Read More
Denali Summit Strategies & Mountain Flexibility
American Alpine Institute
...summit success. A Note about “Mountain Safety” While AAI has an impressive record on the mountain, that doesn’t mean that… Read More
Why Climb Denali (Mt. McKinley) with American Alpine Institute?
American Alpine Institute
Climbing Denali with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) isn’t just about reaching North America’s highest summit—it’s about doing it the… Read More
Deep Snow Immersion: Tree Wells and Moats
American Alpine Institute
...an article by Jason D. Martin in Adventures Northwest. Ski with a Partner First and foremost, skiing with a partner… Read More
Toprope Solo Techniques
American Alpine Institute
...lot of climbing experience. This is primarily because there is no one there to ensure that you did everything right.… Read More
Micro Cam Considerations
American Alpine Institute
Micro cams live in the world of finger cracks and below—tiny constrictions where larger gear simply won’t go. These cams… Read More
Simul-Climbing Technique
American Alpine Institute
Simul-climbing is an advanced climbing technique where two climbers move up a route at the same time while tied to… Read More
Women Who Conquered the Outdoors:
American Alpine Institute
...very active mountaineer who helped organize the first all-woman ascent of Denali in 1970. Her book, Annapurna: A Woman’s Place,… Read More
Mt. Shuksan Climbing Guide: Top 3 Routes Explained
American Alpine Institute
...ice climbing. The ascent requires one to dig deeply into the mountaineer’s toolkit to pull out the skills required to… Read More
The Seven Summits
American Alpine Institute
...climbing objective in the late 1980’s. Pat Morrow, a Canadian mountaineer, became the first to climb all seven in 1985.… Read More
Top Backcountry Skiing Routes and Objectives in the North Cascades
American Alpine Institute
...some new routes. The prime time for this kind of skiing is usually December through March. Shuksan Arm Lake Anne… Read More
North Cascades Climbing and Mountaineering Objectives: From Beginner Routes to Advanced Adventures
American Alpine Institute
...Route on Liberty Bell. Liberty Bell, Beckey Route – Rock, 1 day Long famous among the Northwest rock enthusiasts, the… Read More
Summit Mt. Baker: A Guide to the Easton, Squak, and Coleman-Deming Routes
American Alpine Institute
...route for your climb. Not sure you want to tackle Mt. Baker on your own? We have guided climbs available!… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
An AAI Team Makes the Second Ascent of China’s 20,050-foot Reddomaine By Aidan Loehr AAI Instructor and Guide Mountain… Read More
50 Classic Climbs
American Alpine Institute
...the climbing world and in our society as a whole have forced a reassessment of the traditional answers to these… Read More
Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Getting equipped for waterfall ice climbing, a highly equipment-intensive activity, used to be easy. You just had to buy some… Read More
Red Rock Super-Classic: Epinephrine
American Alpine Institute
...in the entire Southwest. Epinephrine is a route that is often described as a classic climb; it’s also frequently described… Read More
Kilimanjaro Trek: Good Living on the Top of Africa
American Alpine Institute
...of good living. If you’re looking for a tale of extreme courage and dramatic precipices, you should refer to our… Read More
Rock Shoes: Board-Lasted vs. Slip-Lasted
American Alpine Institute
...individual at the climbing shop. “Dude, you need shoes that hurt,” he tells you. “They should be at least two… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
Alasdair Turner As a guide who always carries a camera, I am often asked about cameras on climbing trips and… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
Seasonal Differences in AAI Summer Mountaineering Programs We are often asked, “What’s the best time to climb Mt. Baker …… Read More
Crevasse Rescue – Introduction
American Alpine Institute
Climbs on large and complex glaciers always entail a risk of crevasse falls. Unlike a fall in rock climbing, where… Read More
