Ice Axe Positions and Alpine Ice Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Alpine ice climbing is the art of moving over steep, frozen terrain high in the mountains. Unlike waterfall ice, which… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
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Climbing Class and Commitment Grade
American Alpine Institute
In the mountains, numbers can feel deceptively simple. A climb is labeled “Class 3” or “Grade III,” and suddenly people… Read More
Lightning Hazard and Mitigation for backcountry travelers
American Alpine Institute
...your hair stands on end or you hear buzzing in your climbing helmet or trekking poles, that’s not just nerves… Read More
Denali Summit Strategies & Mountain Flexibility
American Alpine Institute
...summit success. A Note about “Mountain Safety” While AAI has an impressive record on the mountain, that doesn’t mean that… Read More
Why Climb Denali (Mt. McKinley) with American Alpine Institute?
American Alpine Institute
Climbing Denali with the American Alpine Institute (AAI) isn’t just about reaching North America’s highest summit—it’s about doing it the… Read More
Deep Snow Immersion: Tree Wells and Moats
American Alpine Institute
...an article by Jason D. Martin in Adventures Northwest. Ski with a Partner First and foremost, skiing with a partner… Read More
Toprope Solo Techniques
American Alpine Institute
...alpinism. The route she was trying to complete that day was a 17-pitch 5.11+. It is common for those trying… Read More
Micro Cam Considerations
American Alpine Institute
Micro cams live in the world of finger cracks and below—tiny constrictions where larger gear simply won’t go. These cams… Read More
Simul-Climbing Technique
American Alpine Institute
Simul-climbing is an advanced climbing technique where two climbers move up a route at the same time while tied to… Read More
Women Who Conquered the Outdoors:
American Alpine Institute
Pioneers in Mountaineering, Climbing, and Adventure “Mountain climbing is the greatest sport in the world…There is no better fun than… Read More
Mt. Shuksan Climbing Guide: Top 3 Routes Explained
American Alpine Institute
...ice climbing. The ascent requires one to dig deeply into the mountaineer’s toolkit to pull out the skills required to… Read More
The Seven Summits
American Alpine Institute
...climbing objective in the late 1980’s. Pat Morrow, a Canadian mountaineer, became the first to climb all seven in 1985.… Read More
Top Backcountry Skiing Routes and Objectives in the North Cascades
American Alpine Institute
...many ways, Mt. Shuksan is one of the highest non-volcanic peaks in the Cascades, and it is among the most… Read More
North Cascades Climbing and Mountaineering Objectives: From Beginner Routes to Advanced Adventures
American Alpine Institute
The North Cascades are a playground for climbers and mountaineers of all skill levels, offering a wide range of routes… Read More
Summit Mt. Baker: A Guide to the Easton, Squak, and Coleman-Deming Routes
American Alpine Institute
...route for your climb. Not sure you want to tackle Mt. Baker on your own? We have guided climbs available!… Read More
Red Rock Super-Classic: Epinephrine
American Alpine Institute
...in the entire Southwest. Epinephrine is a route that is often described as a classic climb; it’s also frequently described… Read More
50 Classic Climbs
American Alpine Institute
...routes and areas are available to AAI through our existing permits with land managers. Routes that were in the original… Read More
Kilimanjaro Trek: Good Living on the Top of Africa
American Alpine Institute
...of good living. If you’re looking for a tale of extreme courage and dramatic precipices, you should refer to our… Read More
Rock Shoes: Board-Lasted vs. Slip-Lasted
American Alpine Institute
...individual at the climbing shop. “Dude, you need shoes that hurt,” he tells you. “They should be at least two… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
...already available on the internet, but much of it does not apply to taking cameras up mountains where conditions are… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
...West Ridge. The AAI team succeeded in the second ascent via the same route on October 4, 2006. Following are… Read More
Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...that there’s really no bad time, but there are definite differences in the prevailing weather and conditions throughout the summer… Read More
