Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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- Expert Tips (23)
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Ice Axes and Tools for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a technically oriented alpine climb involving a good amount of… Read More
Ice Screw Placement on Multi-Pitch Climbs
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the April 2008 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a multi-pitch ice route, when would the lead climber place… Read More
Lightweight Winter Emergency Gear
American Alpine Institute
...in the Catskills and Adirondacks (mostly day hikes). Even in the winter, the trails are essentially non-technical, but often require… Read More
How to Train for an Expedition
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the February 2011 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I’m planning on a climbing trip to Alaska this spring, and… Read More
How to Avoid Dropping Ice Screws
American Alpine Institute
Question: When climbing ice and removing ice screws I’m always afraid of dropping the screws, especially when wearing heavy gloves.… Read More
Cordellettes vs. Slings
American Alpine Institute
...lengths? – Quinn Ager (Oakland, CA) Answer: Dear Quinn, I use cordellettes myself, though not as much as I used… Read More
Climbing Efficiently with Large Groups
American Alpine Institute
...four. However, the Underhill Route, like most other alpine rock routes, has lots of fourth class and low fifth class,… Read More
Belay Station Management and Efficient Transitions
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter My partner and I seem to waste a lot of time… Read More
“Ask a Guide” Letters
American Alpine Institute
...Guide and our Director for Staff Development, answers all Ask A Guide questions. Michael oversees field staff, guide training, and… Read More
Locating Crevasses on a Glacier
American Alpine Institute
...crevasse. Travel at a time when snow bridges are at their best: seasonally, this means that making your ascents early… Read More
Roping up for Glacier Travel
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the July 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter My team and I are traveling to Rainier to climb the… Read More
Rope Soloing: Is it Strictly for Idiots?
American Alpine Institute
...biggest danger in using these devices is not having any redundancy in the system. In climbing, it’s really important not… Read More
Is Back-Clipping a Real Danger?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have always thought that improperly clipping the rope thru pro… Read More
What’s the Best AT Backcountry Ski Setup?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the March 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I want to get into backcountry skiing, and I wonder if… Read More
Tying into a Climbing Harness: Long Tail or Backup Knot?
American Alpine Institute
...tie in knot (generally a figure-eight follow through) is tied perfectly – that is, with no twists and all four… Read More
Top-Roping: Extending Anchors
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Recently I have run into more than a few anchors in… Read More
Speaking Up About Unsafe Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Sometimes when I am rock climbing at the local crag I… Read More
Ski Mountaineering: Whippet or Ice Axe?
American Alpine Institute
...climbing a big mountain – ski mountaineering for a ski descent – I’ll usually have an ice axe with me… Read More
Simul-Climbing: Managing Danger from Falls
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the March 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter A Petzl Tibloc emergency ascender. I have read that using an… Read More
Selecting a Rope for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...some glaciated routes in the North Cascades. If I am planning to move together with my partners on the route… Read More
Footcare for Climbers: Stepping up to Happier Feet
American Alpine Institute
...possible): While hiking/climbing, make an effort to keep rain, snow, and stream splash out of your boots; you can protect… Read More
Staying Dry on the Mountain
American Alpine Institute
...gear and get by with less. To dry wet socks, gloves, and other clothing on overnight trips, pack them around… Read More
