What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
Question: I am wondering about snow caves verses a good four-season tent; is one a better shelter than the other?… Read More
Climbing Efficiently with Large Groups
American Alpine Institute
...four. However, the Underhill Route, like most other alpine rock routes, has lots of fourth class and low fifth class,… Read More
Selecting a Rope for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...some glaciated routes in the North Cascades. If I am planning to move together with my partners on the route… Read More
Cordellettes vs. Slings
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have started to use cordellettes for building anchors and like… Read More
Simul-Climbing: Managing Danger from Falls
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the March 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter A Petzl Tibloc emergency ascender. I have read that using an… Read More
How to Avoid Dropping Ice Screws
American Alpine Institute
Question: When climbing ice and removing ice screws I’m always afraid of dropping the screws, especially when wearing heavy gloves.… Read More
Ski Mountaineering: Whippet or Ice Axe?
American Alpine Institute
...climbing a big mountain – ski mountaineering for a ski descent – I’ll usually have an ice axe with me… Read More
How to Train for an Expedition
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the February 2011 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I’m planning on a climbing trip to Alaska this spring, and… Read More
Speaking Up About Unsafe Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Sometimes when I am rock climbing at the local crag I… Read More
Ice Axes and Tools for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a technically oriented alpine climb involving a good amount of… Read More
Top-Roping: Extending Anchors
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Recently I have run into more than a few anchors in… Read More
Ice Screw Placement on Multi-Pitch Climbs
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the April 2008 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a multi-pitch ice route, when would the lead climber place… Read More
Tying into a Climbing Harness: Long Tail or Backup Knot?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have a question regarding standard for the tie-in knot: Is… Read More
Is Back-Clipping a Real Danger?
American Alpine Institute
...in the event of a fall. Although this intuitively looks like an obvious threat, I have heard that in practice… Read More
What’s the Best AT Backcountry Ski Setup?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the March 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I want to get into backcountry skiing, and I wonder if… Read More
Lightweight Winter Emergency Gear
American Alpine Institute
...in the Catskills and Adirondacks (mostly day hikes). Even in the winter, the trails are essentially non-technical, but often require… Read More
Locating Crevasses on a Glacier
American Alpine Institute
...crevasse. Travel at a time when snow bridges are at their best: seasonally, this means that making your ascents early… Read More
“Ask a Guide” Letters
American Alpine Institute
...Guide and our Director for Staff Development, answers all Ask A Guide questions. Michael oversees field staff, guide training, and… Read More
Rope Soloing: Is it Strictly for Idiots?
American Alpine Institute
...noticed there are soloist belay devices on the market. Do they work with any degree of reliability and are there… Read More
Belay Station Management and Efficient Transitions
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter My partner and I seem to waste a lot of time… Read More
Roping up for Glacier Travel
American Alpine Institute
...luck with your climb. Having the two climbers tied in with figure 8’s with the excess coils around the chests… Read More