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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.

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What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More

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Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?

American Alpine Institute

...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More

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Climbing Efficiently with Large Groups

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the April 2008 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter How do you climb efficiently with a large group? I’m headed… Read More

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Selecting a Rope for Alpine Climbing

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the March 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I am looking at ropes for alpine glacier and couloir routes… Read More

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Cordellettes vs. Slings

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have started to use cordellettes for building anchors and like… Read More

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Simul-Climbing: Managing Danger from Falls

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the March 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter A Petzl Tibloc emergency ascender. I have read that using an… Read More

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How to Avoid Dropping Ice Screws

American Alpine Institute

Question: When climbing ice and removing ice screws I’m always afraid of dropping the screws, especially when wearing heavy gloves.… Read More

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Ski Mountaineering: Whippet or Ice Axe?

American Alpine Institute

...climbing a big mountain – ski mountaineering for a ski descent – I’ll usually have an ice axe with me… Read More

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How to Train for an Expedition

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the February 2011 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I’m planning on a climbing trip to Alaska this spring, and… Read More

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Speaking Up About Unsafe Climbing

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Sometimes when I am rock climbing at the local crag I… Read More

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Ice Axes and Tools for Alpine Climbing

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a technically oriented alpine climb involving a good amount of… Read More

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Top-Roping: Extending Anchors

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Recently I have run into more than a few anchors in… Read More

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Ice Screw Placement on Multi-Pitch Climbs

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the April 2008 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a multi-pitch ice route, when would the lead climber place… Read More

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Tying into a Climbing Harness: Long Tail or Backup Knot?

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have a question regarding standard for the tie-in knot: Is… Read More

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Is Back-Clipping a Real Danger?

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have always thought that improperly clipping the rope thru pro… Read More

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What’s the Best AT Backcountry Ski Setup?

American Alpine Institute

Question: From the March 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I want to get into backcountry skiing, and I wonder if… Read More

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Lightweight Winter Emergency Gear

American Alpine Institute

...in the Catskills and Adirondacks (mostly day hikes). Even in the winter, the trails are essentially non-technical, but often require… Read More

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Locating Crevasses on a Glacier

American Alpine Institute

...crevasse. Travel at a time when snow bridges are at their best: seasonally, this means that making your ascents early… Read More

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