What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Belay Station Management and Efficient Transitions
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter My partner and I seem to waste a lot of time… Read More
Roping up for Glacier Travel
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the July 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter My team and I are traveling to Rainier to climb the… Read More
Climbing Efficiently with Large Groups
American Alpine Institute
...to get back together and hand back the pro. Only when the known cruxes are passed (say a wide crack)… Read More
Selecting a Rope for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the March 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I am looking at ropes for alpine glacier and couloir routes… Read More
Cordellettes vs. Slings
American Alpine Institute
...lengths? – Quinn Ager (Oakland, CA) Answer: Dear Quinn, I use cordellettes myself, though not as much as I used… Read More
Simul-Climbing: Managing Danger from Falls
American Alpine Institute
...limiters and allowing backwards movement, which would still keep the climbing team attached to the mountain in case of a… Read More
How to Avoid Dropping Ice Screws
American Alpine Institute
Question: When climbing ice and removing ice screws I’m always afraid of dropping the screws, especially when wearing heavy gloves.… Read More
Ski Mountaineering: Whippet or Ice Axe?
American Alpine Institute
...climbing a big mountain – ski mountaineering for a ski descent – I’ll usually have an ice axe with me… Read More
How to Train for an Expedition
American Alpine Institute
...fast, but they must be made non-stop without searching or slowing down to look for the best foot or hand… Read More
Speaking Up About Unsafe Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the November 2007 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Sometimes when I am rock climbing at the local crag I… Read More
Ice Axes and Tools for Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...axes or just one technical axe and one long mountaineers axe? Can you self arrest just as well with an… Read More
Top-Roping: Extending Anchors
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Recently I have run into more than a few anchors in… Read More
Ice Screw Placement on Multi-Pitch Climbs
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the April 2008 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter On a multi-pitch ice route, when would the lead climber place… Read More
Tying into a Climbing Harness: Long Tail or Backup Knot?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have a question regarding standard for the tie-in knot: Is… Read More
Is Back-Clipping a Real Danger?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the May 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter I have always thought that improperly clipping the rope thru pro… Read More
What’s the Best AT Backcountry Ski Setup?
American Alpine Institute
...willing to give up some of my equipment’s downhill performance because I can attempt to compensate with technique. If I… Read More
Lightweight Winter Emergency Gear
American Alpine Institute
...in the Catskills and Adirondacks (mostly day hikes). Even in the winter, the trails are essentially non-technical, but often require… Read More
Locating Crevasses on a Glacier
American Alpine Institute
...You didn’t ask about them, but other primary hazards in glacial terrain are ice and serac fall, avalanches, and climber… Read More
“Ask a Guide” Letters
American Alpine Institute
...Guide and our Director for Staff Development, answers all Ask A Guide questions. Michael oversees field staff, guide training, and… Read More
Rope Soloing: Is it Strictly for Idiots?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the January 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Is there a technique for rope-soloing that offers a reasonable margin… Read More