Backcountry Meal Planning Guide
American Alpine Institute
Lightweight, calorie-dense, and practical strategies for fueling in the mountains Mountaineering demands a lot from your body. Cold, altitude, heavy… Read More
Educational articles
Expert Tips
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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- Trip Reports (7)
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
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- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
Micro Cam Considerations
American Alpine Institute
Micro cams live in the world of finger cracks and below—tiny constrictions where larger gear simply won’t go. These cams… Read More
Simul-Climbing Technique
American Alpine Institute
Simul-climbing is an advanced climbing technique where two climbers move up a route at the same time while tied to… Read More
Women Who Conquered the Outdoors:
American Alpine Institute
...Shiraishi became the youngest person (male or female) to climb a sport route rated 5.14d/5.15a, and she was the first… Read More
Practice Your Climbing Knots Online
American Alpine Institute
Basic Knots for Climbers and Mountaineers: Notes and Online Animations By Tom Kirby AAI Instructor and Guide Introductory Terminology: Knots,… Read More
Rock Climbing Terms: Styles and Techniques
American Alpine Institute
...and techniques of rock climbing. Top Rope Climbing vs. Lead Climbing On small crags or practice boulders where there is… Read More
Rock Shoes: Board-Lasted vs. Slip-Lasted
American Alpine Institute
...individual at the climbing shop. “Dude, you need shoes that hurt,” he tells you. “They should be at least two… Read More
Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
Alasdair Turner As a guide who always carries a camera, I am often asked about cameras on climbing trips and… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...If your experience in wilderness medicine is limited, look over Wilderness Medical Training Center’s (WMTC) publications and consider carrying their… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...Traps in Recreational Avalanche Accidents”, set in motion changes in the way avalanche safety is taught in the United States… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Expert Tips
American Alpine Institute
...Climbing Styles: What Do the Different Terms Mean? Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and… Read More
Footwear for Mountaineering and Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...very specific piece of gear designed. For most applications (approach, ice climbing, rock climbing, etc.) you will likely have a… Read More
Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...warmth is often sacrificed for the sake of increased dexterity. In short, if you plan to climb higher standard rock… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
The Physical Difficulties of High-Altitude Mountaineering Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide The process of advising and screening for… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...alpine ice climbing in the North Cascades of Washington. His trip was to include some glacier travel, camping on snow,… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...on long routes as well, such as making it to the burger and beer joint before closing time! Mike Powers,… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...to explain weather patterns or list the different types of weather that are possible in the mountains. There are many… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...shots later in your presentation. Don’t stop shooting after reaching the summit. Many good mountaineering photos are made while going… Read More