Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
Getting equipped for waterfall ice climbing, a highly equipment-intensive activity, used to be easy. You just had to buy some… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...Our instructors also participate in yearly continuing education programs taught through AAI. Experience and guiding history will vary from guide… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Fighting for Fitzroy
American Alpine Institute
...the Indian name for Fitzroy. Likening the mountain’s constant cloud cover to smoke, the natives named it “Chalten” meaning “volcano”… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...that there’s really no bad time, but there are definite differences in the prevailing weather and conditions throughout the summer… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
An AAI Team Makes the Second Ascent of China’s 20,050-foot Reddomaine By Aidan Loehr AAI Instructor and Guide Mountain… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...they wanted to do was far from a walk in the park. “I knew they were serious mountains,” Brandon said,… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...shots later in your presentation. Don’t stop shooting after reaching the summit. Many good mountaineering photos are made while going… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...guarantee your climbing will be fast and effective. Don’t forget to have fun in the process! Click the link to… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...meaning that some climbers who look good on paper will be unprepared when they reach the mountain, and some who… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...anyway that awareness of weather must be combined with solid navigation skills, knowledge of self-rescue, and well-founded decision-making abilities to… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...some of the the technical knowledge and experience necessary for making smart decisions about what you decide to put in… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...Traps in Recreational Avalanche Accidents”, set in motion changes in the way avalanche safety is taught in the United States… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...or compartment substitutes. Clearly label each compartment or pack: In many expeditions each expedition member carries their own personal care… Read More
