Crevasse Rescue – Introduction
American Alpine Institute
...needs to happen quickly, even if the climber is uninjured. Crevasse rescue is a mandatory skill for mountaineers, followers and… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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- AAI Programs (2)
- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
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- Trip Reports (7)
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
...already available on the internet, but much of it does not apply to taking cameras up mountains where conditions are… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...Mt. Baker and rock climbing course at Washington Pass in May, 2) a climb of Mt. Rainier at the beginning… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...Our instructors also participate in yearly continuing education programs taught through AAI. Experience and guiding history will vary from guide… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...difficult will it be to get down? If the route is very difficult to descend, consider taking a different route… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
...plans validated or an online place or guidebook series that includes them? Being a new climber, I would like to… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...route, there are some sections of the route that require physical conditioning outside of walking on moderate slopes with heavy… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
Expert Tips
American Alpine Institute
...Climbing Styles: What Do the Different Terms Mean? Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
AAI Instructor and Guide In the mountains, speed is often thought of as safety. Reducing your exposure to the… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...someone who has no understanding of climbing trips. Photos of preparation, packing, and even training can be subjects that non-climbing… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...some of the the technical knowledge and experience necessary for making smart decisions about what you decide to put in… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...“north wall hammer” (an ice axe with a hammer end in place of an adze end) instead of carrying a… Read More
Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...uphill) can be a quick and easy way to dry your gloves while in action. Be careful of drying gloves… Read More
Footwear for Mountaineering and Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...very specific piece of gear designed. For most applications (approach, ice climbing, rock climbing, etc.) you will likely have a… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...or compartment substitutes. Clearly label each compartment or pack: In many expeditions each expedition member carries their own personal care… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be… Read More
