Crevasse Rescue – Introduction
American Alpine Institute
...needs to happen quickly, even if the climber is uninjured. Crevasse rescue is a mandatory skill for mountaineers, followers and… Read More
Educational articles
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
In the mountaineering courses and expeditions that we run at AAI, there are many instances where we must bring some… Read More
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
...already available on the internet, but much of it does not apply to taking cameras up mountains where conditions are… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...Mt. Baker and rock climbing course at Washington Pass in May, 2) a climb of Mt. Rainier at the beginning… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
Former AAI Instructor and Guide Waddington! – Just the name quickens the heartbeat of any alpinist who has happened… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
Frequently Asked Questions about AAI’s Denali Expeditions The following questions and answers about the Denali West Buttress route and American… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...anyway that awareness of weather must be combined with solid navigation skills, knowledge of self-rescue, and well-founded decision-making abilities to… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...meaning that some climbers who look good on paper will be unprepared when they reach the mountain, and some who… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Snow avalanches occur tens of thousands of times each year throughout the… Read More
Expert Tips
American Alpine Institute
...Climbing Styles: What Do the Different Terms Mean? Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...guarantee your climbing will be fast and effective. Don’t forget to have fun in the process! Click the link to… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...someone who has no understanding of climbing trips. Photos of preparation, packing, and even training can be subjects that non-climbing… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...some of the the technical knowledge and experience necessary for making smart decisions about what you decide to put in… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...warmth is often sacrificed for the sake of increased dexterity. In short, if you plan to climb higher standard rock… Read More
Footwear for Mountaineering and Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...very specific piece of gear designed. For most applications (approach, ice climbing, rock climbing, etc.) you will likely have a… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
AAI Program Coordinator and Denali guide Pulling sleds on an expedition is very much a love-hate relationship – one… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
Whether you are traveling alone, taking part in an expedition or climbing course, or responding as a member of a… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be… Read More
