Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
Discover
AAI Articles
Categories:
- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...the mountain. The other main difference between our climbs and others is our educational and teaching emphasis. We were founded… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Fighting for Fitzroy
American Alpine Institute
...the Indian name for Fitzroy. Likening the mountain’s constant cloud cover to smoke, the natives named it “Chalten” meaning “volcano”… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...that there’s really no bad time, but there are definite differences in the prevailing weather and conditions throughout the summer… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
...West Ridge. The AAI team succeeded in the second ascent via the same route on October 4, 2006. Following are… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...Mt. Baker and rock climbing course at Washington Pass in May, 2) a climb of Mt. Rainier at the beginning… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...angle routes may lend themselves better to camera accessories and additional photographic opportunities. Get familiar with your gear. Like climbing… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
Writings on Various Topics by AAI Guides Over the years, AAI guides and staff have written many articles about climbing… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
...spent the rest of our first full day in Ecuador acclimatizing at 10,000 feet while walking around the famous Otavalo… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...guarantee your climbing will be fast and effective. Don’t forget to have fun in the process! Click the link to… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
From the December 2005 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter Snow avalanches occur tens of thousands of times each year throughout the… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...route, there are some sections of the route that require physical conditioning outside of walking on moderate slopes with heavy… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...Mountain Weather Mountain Weather by Jeff Renner Practical Mountain Weather: A Guide for Hikers, Climbers and Skiers by John Papineau… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...alpine ice climbing in the North Cascades of Washington. His trip was to include some glacier travel, camping on snow,… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
AAI Program Coordinator and Denali guide Pulling sleds on an expedition is very much a love-hate relationship – one… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...retailers, and is delivered each year to members of the club along with the American Alpine Journal. By reading and… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...or compartment substitutes. Clearly label each compartment or pack: In many expeditions each expedition member carries their own personal care… Read More
