Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...protection is also critical when climbing “mixed” routes, or routes that necessitate both rock and ice climbing in varying amounts.… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...the mountain. The other main difference between our climbs and others is our educational and teaching emphasis. We were founded… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Fighting for Fitzroy
American Alpine Institute
...the Indian name for Fitzroy. Likening the mountain’s constant cloud cover to smoke, the natives named it “Chalten” meaning “volcano”… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
Seasonal Differences in AAI Summer Mountaineering Programs We are often asked, “What’s the best time to climb Mt. Baker …… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
An AAI Team Makes the Second Ascent of China’s 20,050-foot Reddomaine By Aidan Loehr AAI Instructor and Guide Mountain… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...they wanted to do was far from a walk in the park. “I knew they were serious mountains,” Brandon said,… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
Question: I am wondering about snow caves verses a good four-season tent; is one a better shelter than the other?… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...shots later in your presentation. Don’t stop shooting after reaching the summit. Many good mountaineering photos are made while going… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
AAI Instructor and Guide In the mountains, speed is often thought of as safety. Reducing your exposure to the… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...route, there are some sections of the route that require physical conditioning outside of walking on moderate slopes with heavy… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...Mountain Weather Mountain Weather by Jeff Renner Practical Mountain Weather: A Guide for Hikers, Climbers and Skiers by John Papineau… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...some of the the technical knowledge and experience necessary for making smart decisions about what you decide to put in… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...Traps in Recreational Avalanche Accidents”, set in motion changes in the way avalanche safety is taught in the United States… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
Whether you are traveling alone, taking part in an expedition or climbing course, or responding as a member of a… Read More
