Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...Our instructors also participate in yearly continuing education programs taught through AAI. Experience and guiding history will vary from guide… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
Route Profile Location: North Cascades of Washington, Mt. Baker Wilderness Season: Nearly year round. May through September bring the best… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Fighting for Fitzroy
American Alpine Institute
...the Indian name for Fitzroy. Likening the mountain’s constant cloud cover to smoke, the natives named it “Chalten” meaning “volcano”… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...soft snow, it is challenging to discuss avalanches. But it’s easy to develop higher-end cramponing skills. Indeed, as there’s more… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
...West Ridge. The AAI team succeeded in the second ascent via the same route on October 4, 2006. Following are… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
In the mountaineering courses and expeditions that we run at AAI, there are many instances where we must bring some… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...alpine rock routes at Washington Pass: the Becky Route on Liberty Bell (5.6) and the South Arete of South Early… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
Question: I am wondering about snow caves verses a good four-season tent; is one a better shelter than the other?… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...you have a fair amount of mountaineering experience under your belt. Many climbers who decide on climbing denali with a… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...someone who has no understanding of climbing trips. Photos of preparation, packing, and even training can be subjects that non-climbing… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...on long routes as well, such as making it to the burger and beer joint before closing time! Mike Powers,… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
The Physical Difficulties of High-Altitude Mountaineering Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide The process of advising and screening for… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
The answer to the question of whether or not to leave camp for the summit can sometimes be obvious, such… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...some of the the technical knowledge and experience necessary for making smart decisions about what you decide to put in… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...Traps in Recreational Avalanche Accidents”, set in motion changes in the way avalanche safety is taught in the United States… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...or compartment substitutes. Clearly label each compartment or pack: In many expeditions each expedition member carries their own personal care… Read More
