Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...rated only as aid climbing protection and not for falls), so you should decide what length of screws to bring… Read More
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AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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- FAQs (3)
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- Route Information (2)
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Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...the mountain. The other main difference between our climbs and others is our educational and teaching emphasis. We were founded… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
...great mountaineering route. Harder Routes Mt. Waddington, South Face (Bravo Glacier Route) Technically, the aspect is southwest, not south. This… Read More
Fighting for Fitzroy
American Alpine Institute
...the Indian name for Fitzroy. Likening the mountain’s constant cloud cover to smoke, the natives named it “Chalten” meaning “volcano”… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...factor, and we recommend that you book early to accommodate your schedule. The core curricula of the longer instructional courses… Read More
Success in Sichuan: Second Ascent of Reddomaine
American Alpine Institute
...West Ridge. The AAI team succeeded in the second ascent via the same route on October 4, 2006. Following are… Read More
Snow Flotation for Climbers: Skis or Snowshoes?
American Alpine Institute
...most difficult and potentially frustrating to use. Their uses are diverse: they may be appropriate for approaching a climbing objective,… Read More
Father and Son in the Alps: Climbing the Alps Trilogy
American Alpine Institute
...Mt. Baker and rock climbing course at Washington Pass in May, 2) a climb of Mt. Rainier at the beginning… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
...plans validated or an online place or guidebook series that includes them? Being a new climber, I would like to… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide If you have made it as far as researching guided climbs of Denali… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...card or storage device. If you’re using film be careful while rewinding your film in super cold temperatures. Film can… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
Writings on Various Topics by AAI Guides Over the years, AAI guides and staff have written many articles about climbing… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
AAI Instructor and Guide In the mountains, speed is often thought of as safety. Reducing your exposure to the… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...avalanches, a mass of cohesive snow releases as a unit. Slab avalanches can be triggered naturally or artificially. How concerned… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
The Physical Difficulties of High-Altitude Mountaineering Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide The process of advising and screening for… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...Mountain Weather Mountain Weather by Jeff Renner Practical Mountain Weather: A Guide for Hikers, Climbers and Skiers by John Papineau… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...alpine ice climbing in the North Cascades of Washington. His trip was to include some glacier travel, camping on snow,… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...or subtract gear, reflecting the characteristics of my climbing objective. Below is a discussion of each of the components of… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
...a bit and use the principles contained herein to guide your experiments. Gear needed (diagram and labels in photo… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...Traps in Recreational Avalanche Accidents”, set in motion changes in the way avalanche safety is taught in the United States… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...If your experience in wilderness medicine is limited, look over Wilderness Medical Training Center’s (WMTC) publications and consider carrying their… Read More
