Crevasse Rescue – Introduction
American Alpine Institute
...needs to happen quickly, even if the climber is uninjured. Crevasse rescue is a mandatory skill for mountaineers, followers and… Read More
Educational articles
Articles
AAI's website articles take a deep dive into topics important to climbers, skiers, and general outdoor enthusiasts, with an emphasis on skills, route information, and trip reports.
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AAI Articles
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- Ask a Guide Letters (22)
- Expert Tips (23)
- FAQs (3)
- Peaks and Routes (5)
- Route Information (2)
- Skills (1)
- Trip Reports (7)
- AAI Programs (2)
Using Your Camera in the Mountains
American Alpine Institute
Alasdair Turner As a guide who always carries a camera, I am often asked about cameras on climbing trips and… Read More
Mount Waddington and British Columbia’s Coast Range
American Alpine Institute
Former AAI Instructor and Guide Waddington! – Just the name quickens the heartbeat of any alpinist who has happened… Read More
Mt. Baker, North Ridge
American Alpine Institute
...more information on climbing this amazing route! Guide Coley Gentzel’s North Ridge Story Former AAI Program Coordinator and Guide… Read More
Denali FAQ
American Alpine Institute
...by our program coordinators and guides. Click on a question to jump to an in-depth answer below. Click on the… Read More
What’s the Best Month to Climb in the Cascades?
American Alpine Institute
...variability can creep in and there can be a mix of rain occasionally, but rain-free days are often warm and… Read More
Mountain Weather: When to Go for the Summit
American Alpine Institute
...anyway that awareness of weather must be combined with solid navigation skills, knowledge of self-rescue, and well-founded decision-making abilities to… Read More
Picture Savvy: Improving Your Climbing Photography
American Alpine Institute
...someone who has no understanding of climbing trips. Photos of preparation, packing, and even training can be subjects that non-climbing… Read More
How Difficult is Climbing Denali’s West Buttress?
American Alpine Institute
...you with regard to acclimatization. It takes more than six weeks at altitude to begin to reap the benefits of… Read More
Avalanche Safety: How to Avoid Getting Buried
American Alpine Institute
...more dangerous decisions. You do not ever want to have to use your rescue gear. 5. Travel with trusted, avalanche-educated… Read More
Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety
American Alpine Institute
...guarantee your climbing will be fast and effective. Don’t forget to have fun in the process! Click the link to… Read More
Expert Tips
American Alpine Institute
...Climbing Styles: What Do the Different Terms Mean? Alpine Efficiency: Combining Speed and Safety Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and… Read More
What’s the Right Length for a Cordelette?
American Alpine Institute
Question: From the September 2006 edition of AAI’s E-newsletter What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine… Read More
Winter Mountaineering Gear: Snow Cave or Tent?
American Alpine Institute
...you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high… Read More
Choosing a Denali Guide
American Alpine Institute
...plan in the mountains. The Park rangers say it best when they say that to succeed on Denali, “you need… Read More
Mountain Preparedness: What Goes in a Guide’s Pack
American Alpine Institute
...alpine ice climbing in the North Cascades of Washington. His trip was to include some glacier travel, camping on snow,… Read More
How to Select an Alpine Rack
American Alpine Institute
...chickenheads, flakes, spikes, trees, or anything that I can either girth-hitch or slip-knot a sling around. Quickdraws are for the… Read More
Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing
American Alpine Institute
A Seasoned Alpinist Shares His Secrets AAI Instructor and Guide Planning for and acquiring the proper equipment for mountain… Read More
Footwear for Mountaineering and Climbing
American Alpine Institute
...didn’t need any special equipment or skill outside of the ability to walk, this is a non-technical route. A step… Read More
Expedition Sled Rigging
American Alpine Institute
AAI Program Coordinator and Denali guide Pulling sleds on an expedition is very much a love-hate relationship – one… Read More
Climbing Accident Reports: How (and Why) to Read Them
American Alpine Institute
...research has thrown light on the ways in which emotion and non-rational modes of thought play integral roles in most… Read More
Ecuador Volcanoes – A Climbing Trip Report
American Alpine Institute
The Cayambe hut with the Hermosa glacier pouring in slow motion down the mountain’s West Face. Editor’s note: Climbing in… Read More
Climbing Articles
American Alpine Institute
...childhood. Expert Tips How to Select an Alpine Rack by Erik Johnson Ever wonder how those alpine guides move so… Read More
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
American Alpine Institute
...etc.) from expedition equipment Heat Stroke ♦ Mist bottle for cooling in arid climates ♦ Digital thermometer Heat Exhaustion &… Read More
