Writings on Various Topics by AAI Guides
Over the years, AAI guides and staff have written many articles about climbing tools, techniques, and trips they have taken, including rock climbing, ice, alpine, and ski mountaineering, both here in the Cascades and further afield. Below is a selection of articles. Be sure to check back as we bring more articles online!
Letters
Ask a Mountain Guide
AAI’s lead guide answers questions from our climbers and readers of our blog, website, and newsletter.
Feature Article
Choosing a Denali Guide
Former AAI Denali Coordinator and Guide Coley Gentzel discusses how to approach selecting a guide service for your Denali expedition.
Feature Article
Fighting for Fitzroy
AAI Guide Andrew Wexler gives an account of his personal climbing trip to Patagonia and his attempt to climb the iconic granite spire of Fitzroy, a mountain he had dreamed of since childhood.
Expert Tips
How to Select an Alpine Rack
Ever wonder how those alpine guides move so fast on long routes? Guide Erik Johnson explains how to “right-size” your gear for alpine routes on which speed and mobility are more important than a full set of cams.
Expert Tips
Building Your Wilderness First Aid Kit
The Director of the Wilderness Medicine Training Center in Mazama, WA, explains how to assemble a sensible first aid kit for the mountains.
Technical Articles
Expert Tips
AAI’s guide staff offer insights and technical wisdom on a variety of topics of interest to climbers, from glove selection to mountain photography.
Technical Articles
Physical Conditioning for Mountaineering Expeditions
Onetime AAI Denali Coordinator and Guide Coley Gentzel explains how an ordinary person can systematically ramp up to the level of fitness required to climb high-altitude summits.
Technical Articles
Climbing Accident Reports: How (And Why) to Read Them
AAI Guide and Assistant Director Tom Kirby explains why reading the American Alpine Club’s yearly supplement Accidents in North American Mountaineering could be the best thing you do this year – short of taking an AAI course – to improve your safety in the mountains.
Route information
Mt. Waddington and the Coast Range
Guide Coley Gentzel gives an overview of the most renowned and sought-after summit in British Columbia’s Coast Range.