Denali Expedition (Mt. McKinley) – West Buttress

In typical years we have recommended that climbers consider the late May and early June dates. This time frame usually holds the best combination of weather and conditions. However, in the last few years it has been warming up in the Alaska Range and the transition from winter to spring has been happening earlier. Over the last few years the weather and conditions have been better earlier in May than they have been in the past. As the Alaska Range and, in particular, Denali undergo the seasonal transformation from true winter conditions to more mild spring conditions, the nature of the mountain weather changes a lot. Earlier in the season (late April and early May) there are more clear days, but the wind tends to be higher on the upper mountain. Into the later season (June) the winds are less significant, but there tends to be more cloudy days and snowfall due to the warmer air. We have seen rain at base camp in April and -35 degree Fahrenheit temperatures at the end of June. Weather on Denali always keeps you guessing. Climate change has made weather predictions on the mountain much more difficult.

You need to be prepared for an extremely wide range of temperatures and conditions on Denali. The Kahiltna Glacier, which the West Buttress route follows, can experience some of the of the widest temperature swings on the planet. When the wind is calm and the sun is out, it can be extraordinarily hot, upwards of 80F. At the higher camps, or when a northerly system moves in, the temperatures can dip below -35F. It usually does not stay this cold for too long, but climbers can expect to see these kinds of lows for at least a few days during their climb.

Wind is perhaps the biggest danger on Denali, and climbers should be well prepared to fend off storms and protect themselves and their camps from windy conditions. Even when temperatures are mild, wind chill can accelerate the frostbite process and wreak havoc on equipment and camp sites. Winds in excess of 100mph have been recorded at 14,200 feet. On the other hand, climbers have walked to the summit in t-shirts. Be prepared for everything the mountain has to throw at you and then a little more!

The average individual success rate on Denali is 53% overall and 59% in guided groups other than AAI. The Institute’s success rate for individuals is 77%, and for expeditions it is 85%.

Our Denali teams consist of up to nine climbers and three guides. In the rare event that we don’t have eight or nine climbers, we can run the trip at a 6:2 ratio as well, but this is not preferable and we are usually able to work other options out in the registration and pre-season scheduling process. AAI has found that due to the nature and amount of work on Denali trips, larger teams are better and more successful for a number of reasons. For one, there are more hands to help with the daily work. Also, with more guides the team has a larger variety of options should climbers need to descend or if they are in need of more personal time and attention. With more rope teams on the climb, pairing climbers of similar ability and pace is much easier.

On summit day, many complicated scenarios may arise that affect strategy. If the entire team, including the guides, are still present, the team will function the same as it has up to this point: one guide and three climbers per rope team. However, often a climber or two needs to descend and abandon their attempt on the summit. When this happens, we may have to send a guide along to accompany the climber on their return to base camp. More often than not, descending climbers are able to join another guided group that is heading back down, leaving our team intact with three guides. Groups, particularly guided groups, work together very well on the mountain and help each other out whenever possible.

We have been guiding on Denali since 1980 and have held a concession through the National Park Service since the inception of their concession program in 1991. There are only seven guide services permitted to operate on the mountain. The National Park requires a new application process every ten years. AAI has been awarded the #1 concession application a number of times through the years.

As a company, we are accredited through the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) which is the only certifying body for guides and guide services in the US. As a part of this accreditation we require that all of our instructors, upon hire, complete our Guides Training Program which is a three week, AMGA approved, professional guides’ course. This course is taught by our lead guide trainer, Michael Powers (UIAGM/IFMGA), who is the former Technical Director for the AMGA and who still teaches AMGA certification courses. Our instructors also participate in yearly continuing education programs taught through AAI. Experience and guiding history will vary from guide to guide, as will things like avalanche training, medical certifications, and AMGA certifications. As a base, we require that guides have a WFR certification, Avalanche Level 2, that they meet specific technical ability requirements and that they work within a scope of practice set forth by the AMGA.

Our policies for guides on Denali are as follows: On all West Buttress expeditions there will be one guide who holds the designation of “Lead Guide.” This guide will have reached the summit of Denali at least once (typically several times or more) and will have been on three or more Denali expeditions previously under the leadership of another “Lead Guide.” The second guide will have been on at least one Denali expedition (typically two or more). The third guide on Denali is typically on Denali for the first time, but has worked as a mountain guide in glaciated terrain for at least one full season previously.

Our requirements (prerequisites) for climbers who wish to join a Denali Expedition read as follows: “Climbers need to have an intermediate level of glacier travel skills, glacier travel experience, experience with backcountry winter camping, and be in excellent cardiovascular and physical condition.”

Some of these requirements are left intentionally vague because there are many different skills and experiences that could qualify someone for this trip, and/or serve as the “intermediate level” of experience that we describe. Basically, what we are looking for is that climbers are comfortable using ice axe and crampons on snow and ice up to about 45 degrees in a heavily glaciated environment. Knowing how to self arrest in the event of a fall on snow, and how to use their crampons in different positions according the angle of the slope, would be part of this.

“Glacier travel skills” indicate that you have been part of a rope team on glaciated terrain in the past and you know how to rope up and travel as a team member in a glaciated environment. Crevasse rescue (both as an individual and as part of a team is preferable) is part of the requirements here. You would at least need to be familiar with the basics of crevasse rescue and have practiced it at some point in the past. We will take some time to review this on the glacier when the Denali trip starts, but you need to come into the expedition with some knowledge of how to build a snow anchor and set up a basic hauling system. If you haven’t done this in the past it should be pretty easy to get familiar with the systems either on your own or with some instruction from others.

The biggest difficulties you will face when climbing Denali are the physical and elemental challenges. The cold weather and the amount of physical work that is required to get to the top are very challenging. The climbing is mostly non-technical, but travel is on immense glaciers throughout and there are a few sections on the upper mountain where the climbing can be on very hard ice and snow up to 45 degrees in steepness. These sections are often protected by fixed ropes, but even ascending the ropes, especially with a pack and at altitude, is very strenuous.

Cold weather camping experience is crucial, and it is also usually fairly easy to attain. As you probably know, Denali can be extremely and wintery, especially on the upper mountain, and it is very important that everyone on the trip knows how to take care of themselves in these sorts of conditions. What we look for here is for folks to have spent multiple days in the backcountry, camping in winter conditions with temps close to zero or in the single digits.

Yes. Definitely. See the response to #7.

We have published a detailed description of our method as part of our expert tips column. You can view the full explanation, including photos, here.

If we do not take any weather or rest days on the climb. It is possible to reach the summit on day 12 or 13. That having been said, most groups at a bare minimum opt for one rest day at 14,200 feet and another upon reaching High Camp. With a reasonable number of rest days and good weather, it is common for groups to summit in 17 to 18 days. Our trips are 21 days long, and these extra days are used at the discretion of the guides and the entire team for weather and/or rest along the way. It is uncommon but certainly not impossible that teams uses all 21 of their days and still do not get a window in which to attempt the summit. AAI’s itinerary for the West Buttress expedition can be found under ‘Course Downloads’ to the right.

Our expedition itinerary has been designed (and modified over 25 years of operation on Denali) to offer climbers the best possible shot at the summit in a “reasonable” amount of time on the mountain and away from the real world. Based on AAI’s extensive expedition experience we have found that on longer trips at altitude and in harsh environments, climbers’ motivation and physical ability to summit after weeks of hard work and bad weather start fading, and in some cases vanish completely. For this reason, and also to keep the cost and length of the trip attainable for a wide range of climbers, we have designed our climbs to offer a length and summit window that is more than adequate for almost all of our expeditions. As previously mentioned, most groups only need 17 – 18 days to climb. We have had a number of trips over the years that do run out of time, but these are few and far between.

Travel and trip insurance is essential. Every Denali climber should have trip cancellation insurance to protect their investment. In addition to this, climbers should seriously consider medical coverage. Those from outside the United States are often surprised by how much it costs to visit a hospital.

AAI does have a preferred provider. However, it is important for every climber to read the fine print both before and after they purchase their insurance product. Depending on need, some may wish to purchase an additional insurance product.

It is important to note that AAI has to adhere to its Terms and Conditions and likely will not be able to provide a refund if a climber cannot attend a program at the last minute. Travel insurance can protect you if your investment if you need to cancel.

AAI can and does schedule private expeditions throughout the Alaska Range and on Denali. The cost for these programs depends on a number of factors including the number of climbers, the length of the program or climb, and the desired climber-to-guide ratio. Contact the administrative office (360-671-1505) for more information.

Choosing a guide service can be a difficult and complicated thing. AAI has published some guidelines and things to consider when Choosing A Guide Service for Denali. The best thing to do here is to make a lot of phone calls, send a lot of emails, and try to get a feel for each company, their programs, and their approach to climbing and guiding. Most major guide services on Denali have very similar trips with regard to inclusions/exclusions, cost, length, climber-to-guide ratio, and general trip logistics. There are a few differences, but none that should be the driving force behind your decision. There are, however, major differences between these companies when it comes to their philosophies and staff. It is hard to list advantages that we might offer over other companies because advantage vs. disadvantage is often times a matter of opinion. We can name a few of what we see as key differences between our company and other and other guide services. Whether or not these are good differences or bad differences depends on what you are looking for and what your personal preference happens to be.

The main difference between our West Buttress program and those offered by other guide services is the prerequisite skills and experience that we require climbers to have prior to joining our trip. Our prerequisites are a somewhat stiffer than some of the other companies, and this can mean several things. First, since we do not accept climbers who lack glacier travel or high altitude experience, we sometimes run fewer trips, or trips with fewer climbers. Second, this also means that our groups are made up of qualified people who have the skills and experience needed to be successful on the mountain. As a result, our success rate is unusually high on the mountain.

The other main difference between our climbs and others is our educational and teaching emphasis. We were founded as a mountaineering and climbing school, and our educational/instructional programs are still at the heart of what we do. We hire guides and instructors who possess a teaching and guiding style that aligns with our mission of helping climbers to gain additional skills and grow personally on every trip, whether that be on a guided climb or on a skills and training course.

In talking about choosing a guide service, we like to tell people to speak to as many companies as possible to get a feel for the personality and core mission of each. After that, one can align with whichever company best suits their personal preference. Of course things like cost, inclusions/exclusions, strategy, group size, and so on should all come into play. From having researched these things for a few years, we can say that the differences between these items will affect your trip less than the core differences between the companies and their staff. Please reference our notes regarding choosing a guide service on Denali.

Safety is a huge concern to us, and we take the safety of the group and of each individual very seriously. Reaching the summit is secondary to returning intact and having a good experience. We are fortunate to have a strong record of safety both on Denali and on our many other trips across the world. We have never had a  fatality on Denali, and we take lengthy precautions to prevent such occurrences.

However, there is a level of personal responsibility when it comes to safety for both the individual and the team. There is nothing a guide can do if a person hides a problem — such as frostbite — from their teammates and guide. In order to have a reasonable level of security, it is important to always be open and honest about your condition.

Yes. We have a number of resources related to physical conditioning for Denali. These are included as part of the registration packet that climbers receive after having registered for an expedition.

Following is a video on this topic:

Climbers will need to arrange for their transportation to Anchorage. This is usually via a flight that will vary in cost depending on what part of the world you are coming from.

For climbers arriving a day or two before the expedition starts (see the arrival and departure notes to follow) there will be a required hotel stay. Some Denali climbers share a room with a fellow climber or two to make it cheaper for everyone. Hotel rates vary based on the season. Please contact our travel coordinator for more information.

Meals prior to and after the expedition are not included.

Climbers will be required to purchase snacks and lunch food for the program. Breakfast and dinner are provided.

Upon return from the glacier, climbers will have the option of heading back to Anchorage or staying the night (or even a few nights) in Talkeetna. Having dinner and drinks at one of the two local pubs in Talkeetna is a longtime tradition amongst Denali climbers and Alaska Range veterans. You will be sorely missed (and be missing out) if you opt for a swift departure. There are a number of things to do after your climb to unwind, and if you have the time to stick around we highly recommend a tour of the Park, a boat ride, or a train ride. Any lodging or transportation once you are off the mountain is not included as part of the expedition fee.

Gratuities for guides are customary and are, of course, appreciated. The amount for this varies widely between climbers and this is ultimately a very personal decision.

On top of your personal gear you will be expected to carry two group food bags (30 – 40lbs each) and a handful of group gear such as shovels, wands, cooking gear, fuel, etc. On the lower mountain we will split our gear between our backpacks and a sled that we drag behind us. Climbers typically put about 60% of their weight in the sled and 40% in their pack on lower-angled slopes. Most climbers start out with approximately 125lbs of gear and food to manage. Much of a climber’s pack weight is made up of personal clothing and equipment, and so climbers with lighter and more modern clothing and equipment will carry less weight than those with older and more bulky items.

AAI can rent you most of the camping and climbing gear you will need for this climb including a sleeping bag. We cannot rent parkas, overboots, or expedition-weight mittens. These are items that you will need to purchase or borrow. A great resource for top of the line mountaineering gear is the AAI Equipment Shop and web site. Here is a list of the items available to rent. Additionally, here is a link to our West Buttress Expedition Equipment List.

We have a mandatory orientation meeting and gear check at 10am on the day before the expedition starts (Day 0 on the itinerary). Most climbers plan to arrive on the evening before.

We ask climbers to plan their return flight out of Anchorage for the second full day after the expedition is scheduled to end. The reason for this is that sometimes bad weather at Base Camp can delay our flight off the glacier. It is much harder to re-book a missed flight as opposed to requesting and earlier one. Most airline companies flying out of Anchorage are more than willing to book an earlier flight when the expedition runs as scheduled, which is almost always does.

AAI programs are run in English. If you do not have the ability to communicate in conversational English, please contact the program coordinator to discuss your situation. It is important to note that if you are unable to follow directions in English on the mountain, you may be asked to leave the expedition.

It is possible to bring an interpreter onto the mountain. But the interpreter will have to pay for their position on the team. Additionally, if the interpreter needs to descend, or the person who needs the interpreter needs to descend, then both individuals will have to go down together. For safety reasons, we cannot have a situation where we are unable to communicate with a climber.