Denali Prep Course

Overview

AAI Guide Matt Anderson leads a team on the fixed lines above 14 Camp on Denali. AAI Collection

Denali is home to some of the most severe weather and climbing conditions on the planet, so climbers looking to have a safe and successful climb on the mountain need to do an excellent job of preparing both mentally and physically for an expedition. The American Alpine Institute has nearly forty years of guiding experience on Denali and we have used our experience to tailor a program in the Cascades that will help prepare you for the challenges of climbing North America's highest peak. Please note that this is not a summit oriented course and no summit attempt will be made.

Course Highlights

Learn Denali-specific skills on an expedition style course
Practice sled rigging, fixed line use and cold weather camping techniques
Review glacial travel, rope team travel and crevasse rescue techniques.

Equipment List

You can find the Denali Prep Course Equipment list HERE

Denali Prep Course

Curriculum

A group practicing sled hauling at the Mt. Baker Ski area.
Stacey Kurtz

Climbing Skills

Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots, and harnesses
Design concepts and selection of ice axes and ice tools
Proper choice and application of the primary ice axe positions
Cramponing techniques
Belays on snow and ice
Selection and placement of snow flukes and pickets
Climbing technique on steep snow and ice
The integration of specific skills with the goals of efficient and safe climbing

Glacier Travel, Rescue, and Living Skills

An introduction to glacial structures and movement: how to use large external land forms to predict inner glacial structures and hence the difficulties and hazards of a potential route
Principles of glacier travel while climbing and skiing
Individual and team crevasse rescue
Route finding and marking in low visibility
Snow cave and igloo construction and living
Leave No Trace principles of climbing, traveling, and living in the alpine environment

Participants practice crevasse rescue one a wild Alaskan Glacier.

Participants practice crevasse rescue on a wild Alaskan Glacier.
AAI Collection

Expedition Skills

Discussion of Denali expedition climbing styles with comparisons of inherent advantages, limitations, and requirements associated with each style
Expedition processes in icefalls and the establishment and ascension of fixed lines
Techniques for roped use of sleds for transporting gear

Physics, Physiology, and Medicine of Cold Weather and Altitude

An introduction to human physiology in cold weather
Preventing and treating cold weather injuries
An introduction to human physiology at high altitude
Preventing and treating high altitude illnesses.
Equipment List

You can find the Denali Prep Course Equipment list HERE

Other Denali Prep Programs

We offer specialized Denali Prep programs in many exciting locations! Check out the five-day Winter Mountaineering Program held in California's Sierra Nevada Range.

Course Location and Conditions

This course is held on or near Mount Baker. Winter conditions can limit our access to certain areas and trailheads. A popular course location in heavy snow years is to access the backcountry area at Mount Baker Ski Resort. In March and April temperatures may dip as low as the single digits at night and the winds can be relentless. Heavy snowfall is not uncommon and you will more than likely encounter whiteout conditions for at least part, if not all, of this trip. In other words, the Cascades in the winter are the perfect training ground for Denali!

Because of the cold weather and harsh environment, climbers should plan on bringing all of the equipment required for a Denali Expedition, including their overboots and warm sleeping bags. Although these might not be required and/or used extensively on the program, making sure that all of your gear fits, works, and is up for the challenge is essential in preparing for Denali.

Denali Prep Course

Dates

2025 Dates

January 13 - 18, 2025
February 17 - 22, 2025
March 24 - 29, 2025

2026 Dates

TBD

On Mount Baker's Coleman Glacier in winter.
AAI Collection

Denali Prep Course

Details

This winter mountaineering and Denali preparation program is geared for folks with a basic to intermediate level of mountaineering skill and experience who are looking to prepare for and climb Denali in the near future. This program is set-up to be a mini-Denali expedition on which we will employ and use every skill and technique that climbers would expect to use on Denali. This will include the use of sleds, snowshoes, cook tents, and the use of fixed lines as well as a review of glacier travel, rope team, and crevasse rescue techniques.

Each course is led by at least one (depending on the number of climbers) of AAI's Denali guides, and participants will have the unique opportunity of getting direct feedback as to their level of preparedness and areas of training including physical conditioning and technical skill. Our hope is that by offering a prep program several months before the Denali expedition, we can help climbers round out the final pieces of their technical and physical training before heading to Alaska.

Max Ratio - 3:1 (Climbers:Guide)

Capacity - 9 climbers

Duration - 6 days

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: AAI provides breakfast and dinner on these courses. Climbers should bring their own lunch and snack items (there is no dedicated lunch time or break). Please inquire about snack and lunch plans for a 6 day course.

AAI Mountain Guide services, leadership and instruction
Tents and group cooking equipment
Group climbing equipment
Mechanical ascenders for fixed lines
Custom Expedition Sleds
Breakfast and dinner while in the mountains
Transportation between Bellingham and the trailhead
Live Zoom gear consult before the course start.

Exclusions: Transportation to/from Bellingham (airfare and shuttle, if necessary); accommodations in town; personal equipment; travel and personal insurance; lunch and snack items; gratuities to guides.

Prerequisites and Recommendations

Overnight backpacking experience
Excellent physical condition
Previous glacier travel experience is helpful, but not required
We recommend that climbers complete at least one previous mountaineering objective that includes cold weather, altitude, or skill instruction.
We recommend that climbers take this course during the winter or spring before their Denali trip so that skills and training are still fresh upon arrival in Alaska.

Approaching Denali on the Kahiltna Glacier. AAI Collection.

Denali Prep Course

Testimonials

Mt. Baker in the moonlight during an early season Denali Prep course. Alasdair Turner

"I would recommend this course for anyone preparing for a Denali expedition. I also would HIGHLY recommend AAI and especially my guide. He was absolutely aware, skilled, well versed, chilled back just enough to be personable and smart (former Microsoft software engineer)!

For Denali hopefuls like me, whether or not one holds an extensive climbing resume, the prep course is invaluable. You learn how to deal with staying clean for 6 days, unforeseeable circumstances, expedition type lifestyle, getting along with strangers, and working together as a team. Not to mention skills that don't usually get used in general mountaineering like fixed lines, sled pulling, and rope team travel. I worry about team members that haven't had some type of course like this. The course also lets you and the guides know whether or not you are even ready for Denali. I'd hate to find that out in Alaska and lose a lot more time and money. All and all, amazing folks and an amazing mountain! I certainly cannot wait for Denali in June."
Tina T., Huntington Beach, CA