Climbing Expeditions - North America

Expeditions in the Remote Ranges of Alaska and Canada

The remote ranges of Alaska and British Columbia offer some of the most rewarding expedition climbing objectives in the world. In addition to well-known peaks like Denali (Mount McKinley), the highest peak in North America, this region is home to many less well-known ranges and peaks such as Mt. St. Elias and Mt. Waddington. American Alpine Institute has guided expeditions in these ranges for more than thirty years.

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  • Denali Summit Ridge
  • DeHavilland Otter unloading
  • Mt. McKinley summit ridge
  • Denali Summit Team 6 2015
  • Descending Washburn's Thumb
  • Above Denali Pass
  • Lower Kahiltna Glacier
  • Climbers reaching Denali Pass
  • Climber on the Edge of the World
  • Looking at the West Buttress from 17 Camp
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Denali
  • AAI Expedition Team
  • Summit Joy
  • Mt. Foraker from Denali 17k Camp
  • Pulling sleds on Denali
  • Denali Base Camp
  • On the Descent
  • Denali Route Map
  • Climbers Ascending the Summit Ridge on Denali
  • From the summit of Denali (20,310ft)
  • Climbers ascending towards the summit of Denali
  • Denali from the K2 plane ride

  Denali Expedition - West Buttress

  We've been climbing Denali (formerly known as Mt. McKinley) since 1980 and have an outstanding record of safety and summit success. This guided expedition to climb the West Buttress, following an ingenious and beautiful route pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1951, is one of the great mountaineering experiences.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May - June
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:2024 - $11,995 (Book for 2025 at this rate until August 1, 2024)

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  • Climbing the West Rib
  • Denali Route Photo-diagram
  • Towards the bergschrund camp
  • Camp at the start of the West Rib
  • High on Denali's West Rib
  • Fixed lines low on the West Rib
  • Incredible views mid-route on the West Rib

  Denali Expedition - West Rib

  Denali's West Rib is a beautiful, three-mile long ridge that rises dramatically from an 11,000-foot base. In its 9000-foot vertical rise it offers a full range of snow and ice climbing challenges, from ascents and traverses of narrowly winding crests, to sustained technical challenge on 55-degree ice faces. In addition to its variety, the route's dramatic outline and nearly direct rise to the mountain's summit add to its appeal.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:Starts at $11,900

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  • Mixed climbing
  • Mixed blocky terrain
  • Leaving the Cassin Ledge
  • Camp in Second Rock Band
  • Barefoot-at-bivy
  • Ice couloir
  • In camp
  • S. Face of Denali with the Cassin Ridge in center
  • 11,000' Camp on the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier

  Denali Expedition - Cassin Ridge

  First climbed in 1961, the Cassin Ridge rises 8000 feet from the very bottom of Denali's South face to within a few yards of the true summit of the mountain. Steep snow, ice, and mixed climbing make this one of the most sought-after big mountain alpine climbs in the world.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May - July
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:Call for pricing

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  • Climber and new objective
  • An unnamed Peak on the Bagley Icefield
  • Mount St. Elias towers above guide Ben Traxler.
  • Meal time in the St. Elias Range
  • Matanuska Glacier snout
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of an unnammed peak
  • Basecamp deep in the St. Elias Range
  • Interpreting the map
  • Sunset over the remote St. Elias Range

  Saint Elias Range Skills Expedition

  Introducing Alaska and expedition climbing, participants with previous mountaineering experience will learn the skills to be a rope team leader on moderate glacial terrain while intermediate climbers review snow and ice techniques, protective systems, and crevasse rescue. All participants attempt ascents at a beginner or intermediate level in the Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains.

  • Location:St. Elias Range, Alaska
  • Season:May - June
  • Length:Varies
  • Cost:Please contact AAI for pricing

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  • Climbing Waddington Spire
  • Waddington Approach
  • Waddington Camp
  • Climbing Waddington
  • Dragonback Peak near Mt. Waddington

  Mount Waddington Expedition

  First climbed in 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and Bill House in one of the great mountaineering feats of the early 20th century, Mount Waddington (13,186 ft) is the highest peak in the central Coast Range of BC. Fifty-degree snow and 5.7 rock cap a long and complex glacier route, making a climb of Waddington a significant achievement for any mountaineer.

  • Location:Coast Range, BC
  • Season:June - July
  • Length:12 days
  • Cost:Contact us for pricing

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  • Returning to Camp
  • Glacier Travel
  • Excited Group
  • Italy's Boot in Little Switzerland
  • Impressive Peak

  Little Switzerland/Pika Glacier Expedition

  Little Switzerland is the name given to a series of dramatic granite spires jutting up out of the Pika Glacier like broken teeth. Found just 35 miles south of Denali, this sub-range provides ample opportunities for climbers to ascend dramatic towers in single pushes from a base camp on the glacier. Little Swiss is an alpine playground in a grand setting.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:June - July
  • Length:12 Days
  • Cost:Call or email for pricing