program information packet
Denali West Buttress Expedition
Welcome to the expedition of a lifetime! We are thrilled to have you join the American Alpine Institute for our climb of Denali’s stunning West Buttress. Prepare for breathtaking vistas, rigorous physical challenges, and the unparalleled camaraderie of the high Alaska Range. Let’s get to work—the summit awaits!
This page was designed to help you plan an d prepare for your adventure. Please bookmark this page, so that you can easily find it in the future. And please read everything here carefully, including linked pages and PDFs.
Prepare for Your Trip
- Read this page in its entirety. There is nothing on this page that is unimportant. Be sure to read it thoroughly to maximize your chances of a relaxing, enjoyable trip from start to finish.
- Check your email. Be sure to include your SPAM folder. We will be sending important documents to you through third-party services.
- Pay invoices by the dates due. These will be sent to you via our secure online invoicing service.
- Sign our Release from Liability. This may be found below as an e-signable document.
- Fill out other paperwork. Be sure that we have your airline information, a travel insurance statement and your medical information.
- Review our Terms and Conditions. It’s important to understand our agreement with you regarding payments, cancellations, and fees. See the link below.
- Purchase travel insurance. Insurance is crucial to protect your investment and provide peace of mind on your trip. If you elect not to buy trip insurance, you agree to self-insure. See the links below.
- Make travel arrangements. You have the option of working with our travel coordinator – see the link below.
- Study the Equipment List and obtain any gear that you do not already own. Our Equipment Shop can provide state-of-the-art gear and technical advice – see the links below.
- Train and prepare. Make a training and nutrition plan.
- FAQs. Most of these are answered within this document. If you cannot find the answer you’re looking for, be sure to contact your program coordinator.
Documents to fill out
> Release Form / Waiver
> Airline Information
> Travel Insurance Statement
> Medical Information
> Dietary Restrictions
> 10-930 (Fill Out, Send to Coordinator, DO NOT PAY FEES!)
Though the 10-930 form talks about additional fees, those are covered in your tuition. You do not need to worry about it.
Travel, Lodging and Insurance
Meeting Time and Location
On Day 0 of your program, we will meet at 10am in the lobby of the Hyatt House in Anchorage, Alaska. We generally set-up a block of rooms at a discount. See your welcome letter for more information.
We encourage you to book your return flight for two days after the final day of your program. It is always possible that your trip may be unintentionally extended due to weather. Air taxis cannot pick you up when it is storming.
If you need assistance with your travel arrangements, please visit our travel services webpage.
Travel Tips
In the unlikely event that your luggage gets lost, we encourage you to carry your boots and hardshell clothing in your carry-on.
Travel, Trip and Rescue Insurance
AAI always recommends travel, trip and rescue insurance for international trips.
Occasionally people get injured or sick just prior to one of these programs and wish to cancel and receive a credit or a refund. Please carefully read AAI’s terms and conditions, and note that we always recommend trip insurance to cover you if you need to make an unexpected cancellation.
AAI typically recommends Ripcord from RedPoint Travel Protection. But this may not be right for you and your needs. It is always important for you to consider the potential costs of an injury in Alaska and the costs associated with that. Choose your insurance product(s) carefully.
> Click Here to Learn about Ripcord Travel Insurance
In addition to this, please consider the medical and rescue coverage within your trip insurance product if — in the unlikely event of an illness or accident — you are unsure that you are adequately covered for medical or rescue in Africa. It is also imperative that you read all the fine print in any insurance product that you purchase to ensure that you received the coverage that you desire. If you have questions on trip insurance, please visit our travel services webpage.
US Tourist Visa Information
To visit the U.S. as a tourist, you generally need a valid passport and either a Visa (B-2) or an ESTA authorization if from a Visa Waiver country. You must apply online, pay the required fees, and potentially attend a consular interview to prove your intent to return home.
- US Travel Visa Information
- US Entry Guide on International Travel
- Traveling Safely to the United States
Equipment and Rentals
>Click Here for the Denali Equipment List
>Click Here for Rental Information
>Click Here to Visit Equipment Shop Website
Study the equipment list thoroughly. Check and double-check to make sure you own – or have a plan to buy or rent – everything on the list. Pay close attention to the details of the specified gear items.
All rental requests must be made by April 1st of the year of your program. If you’d like to order something and get free shipping (some restrictions), these orders must be made by March 15th.
Note that it is strongly suggested that you complete an equipment consultation to ensure that you have the right equipment for your program. Information on your consultation options may be found in your program welcome letter.
The American Alpine Institute has a state-of-the-art equipment shop and equipment specialists who can help you select clothing and equipment for your expedition. Feel free to contact the shop via email or at 360-671-1570.
West Buttress Itinerary
This is a baseline itinerary. It’s important to note that weather and conditions play a huge factor. Guides are always trying to make the best decisions to manage the team within the given weather situation.
Denali West Buttress Itinerary
Meal Planning
While your breakfast and dinner are provided, lunches will be on your own. The Denali West Buttress meal planning document provides many ideas for the duration of your program.
>Meal Planning Document
There will be some time for shopping on Day 0, but that time is limited. The more you can do before your Day 0 meeting at the hotel, the better.
Training
The key to training for climbing in Alaska is endurance. You should be able to walk uphill with a pack for eight hours at a time. If you are not currently “in shape,” you might consider getting a personal trainer at a local gym, or using a training plan from Uphill Athlete or Evoke Endurance.
Here are some resources that we’ve created to help you with training for big mountains.
- Physical Conditioning for Mountaineering Expeditions
- Preparation and Physical Expectations for Big Mountain Expeditions
Additional Information
- High Altitude and Cold Climate Information
- Denali National Park Mission and History
- Denali National Park Mountaineering Booklet
- Reading List
- CalTopo Route Map of Climb
- Diamox and Other Altitude Drugs
- Affirmation of Mountaineering Ethics – All participants will be asked to agree to these ethics and sign the document to ensure they understand at the beginning of the program.
- English Language Comprehension – Participants must speak conversational English. Misrepresenting proficiency may result in removal from the program. If you have concerns about your English skills, please contact your coordinator as soon as possible to discuss options.
Leave No Trace
AAI has been a leader among guide services in the incorporation of Leave No Trace environmental ethics in courses and guided trips. We are dedicated to protecting the environment and fostering a safe and conscientious outdoor recreation. Please visit the Leave No Trace website to familiarize yourself with the procedures they teach before your program.
Terms and Conditions
Included here is a link to AAI’s Terms and Conditions for your reference and convenience. Please make sure you understand our policies regarding fees, payments, and cancellations.