Seven Summits Training Course

Following is a breakdown of the four training phases and some select ways to achieve the skills required to climb the Seven Summits.

Phase 1: General Mountaineering Training

Alpinism 1: Introduction to Mountaineering (6-days, May-September, WA State)

The best entry point for someone interested in the Seven Summits is AAI’s six day Alpinism 1 program. This program covers all aspects of glacier mountaineering, including snow and ice climbing, glacier mountaineering, and crevasse rescue. In addition to these technical skills, climbers also develop baseline skills in mountain living.

AAI also offers a women’s specific and LGBTQ Alpinism I programs. These are identical to the co-ed programs and are taught by female instructors for the women’s programs and LGBTQ guides for the LGBTQ programs. Note the dates on the program page.

Phase 2: Cold Weather Expedition Training

There are three programs that should be considered for cold weather and expedition training. Any one of them will suffice, but taking more than one will certainly increase your skills and retention of the material.

Denali Prep (6-Days, December-April, WA)

This program was designed specifically to prepare people for an ascent of the highest mountain in North America, Denali (Mt. McKinley). The program reviews the techniques used for general mountaineering, like crevasse rescue and glacier travel, while also inserting some Denali specific skills, like camp fortification and the use of fixed lines.

Sierra Winter Mountaineering (5-days, December-April, CA)

The goal of the Sierra Winter Mountaineering program is to climb Mt. Whitney (14,505ft/4,421m) in winter conditions. Mt. Whitney is the tallest mountain in the Lower 48 and an ascent during the winter is a serious endeavor. This program will expose you to winter mountaineering skills, cold weather and altitude.

Alaska Range Mountaineering (10-days, May-June, AK)

The value of an Alaska Range Mountaineering program is that it is a mini-expedition into the wilds of Alaska. The program allows you to experience all the elements of a big mountain expedition while making ascents on smaller objectives. This program could be considered a longer version of a Denali Prep, as many of the same skills are covered.

Phase 3: Alpine Rock Training

In many ways, the Alpine Rock phase is the easiest phase to accomplish. AAI has a wide array of rock climbing programs in both the summer and the winter throughout the western United States. However, the most obvious option would be to take the six-day Alpinism 2: Intermediate course in Washington State. The curriculum builds upon what an individual has already learned in an Alpinism 1 program. The goal of the program is to climb both alpine rock, and to climb a mixed glacier and rock objective.

It would also be possible to obtain private training on rock in Las Vegas, NV, in the Cascades, WA or in the Sierra-Nevada range, CA.

Phase 4: High Altitude Training

Cotopaxi Skills Expedition with Chimborazo Extension (14-days, November-March, May-July, Ecuador)

This program has two seasons, November through March and May through July. The peaks in Ecuador are extremely high, all over 17,000-feet. And Chimborazo is the tallest mountain in the world from the center of the earth. Success here indicates a high likelihood of success on complicated and high peaks like Denali. This may be one of the easiest places in the world to both work on glacier mountaineering skills, as well as high altitude skills.

The reality is that most people that view this page have some mountain skills. Maybe you’ve done dozens of backpacking trips. Maybe you’ve been winter camping your whole life. Maybe you’ve climbed a few peaks. Or maybe this is all new to you…

Regardless of where you are at within your mountain journey, the reality is that you will likely need some counsel to provide you with the best path to success given your specific background. To receive customized recommendations, call 360-671-1505 or email info@alpineinstitute.com.