Curriculum

In this second 12-day segment of the AMTL Series, you will develop more technical skills while making ascents of the rugged glaciers and high peaks of the North Cascades.  This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on snow, ice, and rock. You will increase your proficiency in free climbing, and you will also become capable of setting up sophisticated and effective protective systems.

Your instructors will help you refine your skills of route selection, route finding, and natural hazards evaluation that were introduced in AMTL Part 1. Additionally, we emphasize the development of both the judgment and the specific climbing and protective systems skills required for leading more advanced climbs. It is our goal that you emerge from this program as a qualified rope team leader on both rock and glacier routes.

Students Will Learn:

  • Introduction to specialized equipment for intermediate and advanced climbing
  • Advanced problems in map, compass, altimeter, and GPS use
  • Introduction to the physics of glacier formation & movement for use in route finding and evaluation
  • Advanced protective systems and anchoring techniques
  • Intermediate and advanced free climbing techniques
  • Steep ice climbing technique
  • Nutrition & menu planning
  • Advanced problems in objective hazard assessment
  • Introduction to avalanche hazard evaluation
  • Advanced problems in crevasse rescue
  • Introduction to self-rescue on rock
  • Intermediate and advanced free climbing techniques
  • Assessing team strength, security, and safety
  • Technical leadership on snow, ice, and rock
  • Assessment of the fragility & vitality of several ecosystems
  • Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

Details

Prerequisites

  • A high level of physical fitness
  • Mountaineering knots and hitches (figure-8 family, bowline family, clove hitch, Münter hitch, Prusik hitch)
  • Basic top-rope and lead belay techniques
  • Setting up anchors for a top-roped rock climb at a crag
  • Basic rappelling techniques
  • Use of crampons and an ice axe
  • Self-arrest maneuvers
  • Crevasse rescue procedures (both how to get yourself out if you fall in a crevasse, and also how to set up a hauling system to rescue a fallen partner)
  • Climbed a glaciated peak within the last two years
  • Followed a multipitch alpine rock route within the last two years
  • Set up a crevasse rescue system in the last two years

​Our intent in this course is to help each participant become an experienced and skilled rope team leader on rock, snow, and ice at an intermediate or advanced level. Because we have such a low climber-to-guide ratio (maximum 3:1) we are able to provide a lot of individual attention to each team member.

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost are group technical climbing equipment like ropes and pickets, transportation to the climbing areas from AAI headquarters, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost are all personal clothing and climbing gear, rentals, gratuities to the guide, meals, or travel insurance.

Course Options

Take Your Skills to the Next Level

After completing AMTL Part 2, Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership 3 is the next step for climbers ready to tackle more advanced alpine objectives and refine their technical leadership skills. We recommend taking some time after AMTL 2 to practice and refine your skills. Doing so makes it easier to absorb the more complex techniques and challenges you’ll encounter in AMTL 3.

If you don’t have the ability to take this full 12-day course, you also have the choice of joining one of our shorter programs that comprise parts of the AMTL 2 curriculum.  These include our 4-day Learn to Lead, 6-day Alpine Ice, and Self-Rescue for Climbers. We can advise you on your best options in light of your interests and future climbing goals.

If you want to complete the entire Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series, you can take the courses at your own pace.  If you complete all 4 parts, you will receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Navigate with Confidence

While this program includes backcountry navigation, time on the mountain is limited. Many climbers choose to expand their skills by adding our dedicated Backcountry Navigation Comprehensive program. This add-on gives you extra practice and confidence with route-finding, map reading, and glacier navigation, ensuring you’re fully prepared to move independently and efficiently in the backcountry.

When to Climb in the Cascades

Every month in the Cascades tells a different story. Early, mid, and late summer each bring unique conditions that affect your climb. See how the season you choose can shape your route, snow conditions, and overall experience in this article.