Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership

Overview

A climber starts up Tonto (5.5) in Red Rocks, NV. Jason Martin

For many the thought of being out on the sharp end of the rope sends shivers up the spine. "What if I fall? What if my gear doesn't hold? What if something happens?" Our Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership course will answer these questions and more. The objective of this program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and movement skills.

The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb. Climbers who are interested in taking their skills to the next level after this course should look into our 4-day Multi-Pitch Skills Course offered in Red Rock, NV and Leavenworth, WA.

Course highlights include:

Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
Introduction to modern traditional technique
Anchor building techniques and management
Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
Technical free climbing movement for a leader

The Learn to Lead course is offered throughout the winter season in Red Rock Canyon, NV and in Joshua Tree National Park, CA. During the summer season this course is offered in Leavenworth, WA and in Squamish, BC.

Course participants are encouraged to bring their own traditional gear. However, if they do not have any, they will be able to use AAI equipment. Helmets, harnesses, and rock shoes are required equipment and are available for rental if needed.

Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership

Curriculum & Locations

Locations

The Learn to Lead course is offered year round in a variety of locations around the Western United States and Canada.

Winter (October - April) locations include:

Red Rock Canyon, NV - located just minutes outside the city of Las Vegas.
Joshua Tree National Park - approximately an hour away from Palm Springs, CA and right next to the Marine base in Twentynine Palms, CA. The climbing at Joshua Tree is very high quality, and because of its legendary parallel-sided cracks it is ideal for people who want to learn to lead climb on granite walls like those of Yosemite.
Moab, UT - near both Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park in southeast Utah.

Summer (April - September) locations include:

Leavenworth, WA - about forty minutes from Wenatchee or three hours from Seattle on the east side of Washington's mountains.
Squamish, BC - located one hour north of Vancouver, BC.
Boulder, CO - roughly 45 min outside of Denver, CO in the front range mountains.
Mammoth Lakes, CA - located in the eastern Sierra, forty minutes north of Bishop, CA, and three hours south of Reno, NV.

Course Itinerary and Curriculum

The curriculum for Learn to Lead varies considerably with the abilities and desires of the group. Our goal is to assess the baseline abilities in the group and build on them as much as possible. Below is a sample curriculum.

Day One:

Efficient and effective gear placement is a crucial skill to master while learning how to lead. Eric Smith

Meet your guide at the program area in the morning (8:00am or 11:30am depending on location and date)
Selection, use and care of traditional gear
Discuss traditional racking techniques
Practical applications of both passive and active protection
Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders
Practical applications of different lead belays
Introduction to the autoblocking device
Introduction to simple rescue techniques

Day Two:

Introduction to multi-directional anchors
Introduction to anchor and rope management
Introduction to leading procedures

Day Three:

Cleaning anchors and rappelling
Techniques for rappelling multi-pitch lines
Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental
Guided example of a short multi-pitch line
Mock single-pitch leading practice

Day Four:

Discussion of falling, fall factors, and how they apply to the leader
Continued mock single-pitch and potentially multi-pitch leading practice
Optional falling practice on gear and/or bolted anchors
Optional student-led climbs in single-pitch setting

Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership

Dates

2025

Red Rock, NV

Apr. 11 - 14, 2025 - Full!

Joshua Tree, CA

Feb. 14 - 17, 2025 - Full!

Moab, UT

Apr. 18 - 21, 2025 - Full!

2025

Leavenworth, WA

May 11 - 14, 2024
May 25 - 28, 2025
June 8 - 11, 2025
June 22 - 25, 2025
July 6 - 9, 2025
July 20 - 23, 2025
Aug. 3 - 6, 2025
Aug. 17 - 20, 2025
Aug. 31 - Sept. 3, 2025
Sept. 14 - 17, 2025
Oct. 2 - 5, 2025

Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership

Details

Prerequisites:

Participants should be able to follow 5.8 (indoors or outdoors) and have some experience in outdoor top-roped climbing.

Max Ratio - 4:1 (Climber:Guide)

Capacity - 8

Minimum Enrollment - 3

A note on enrollment:

Confirming the 4-day course at the regular cost and length requires at least 3 registrants. With two participants, we can run the course as a 3 day itinerary without changing the pricing; with just one individual we will consider this a 'private course' and charge private rates.

Rock Climbing Course Series:

Below is the progression for our rock climbing course series:

Outdoor Rock Climbing Intensive Introduction
Learn to Lead
Technical Self Rescue for Climbers
Multi-Pitch Skills Course

Climbers have a number of potential options for their continuing education, including, but not limited to, the Aid and Big Wall Climbing course and Private Guiding.

Private Courses:

A private Learn to Lead course can be arranged with the location, length, and dates of your choice. Though the group course is generally preferable for learning, a customized course can be superior for some climbers. The cost for a private course is determined by the private rate for the location.

Cost Inclusions and Exclusions:

Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment, climbing permits, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear, gratuities to guide, transportation, lodging/camping fees, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.