Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership COVID-19 UPDATE: AAI is open and operating with new policies and procedures for COVID-19. Click the following link to learn more about AAI's COVID-19 Operating Plans . Note that AAI’s no-cost postponement policy ended February 18, 2022.
Overview
A climber starts up Tonto (5.5) in Red Rocks, NV. Jason Martin
For many the thought of being out on the sharp end of the rope sends shivers up the spine. "What if I fall? What if my gear doesn't hold? What if something happens?" Our Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership course will answer these questions and more. The objective of this program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and movement skills.
The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb.
Course highlights include:
Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
Introduction to modern traditional technique
Anchor building techniques and management
Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
Technical free climbing movement for a leader
Introduction to Rock Leadership is offered throughout the winter season in Red Rock Canyon, NV and in Joshua Tree National Park, CA. During the summer season this course is offered in Leavenworth, WA and in Squamish, BC.
Course participants are encouraged to bring their own traditional gear. However, if they do not have any, they will be able to use AAI equipment. Helmets, harnesses, and rock shoes are required equipment and are available for rental if needed.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Curriculum The curriculum for Learn to Lead varies considerably with the abilities and desires of the group. Our goal is to assess the baseline abilities in the group and build on them as much as possible. Below is a sample curriculum.
Day One:
Efficient and effective gear placement is a crucial skill to master while learning how to lead. Eric Smith
Meet your guide at the program area in the morning (8:00am or 11:30am depending on location and date)
Selection, use and care of traditional gear
Discuss traditional racking techniques
Practical applications of both passive and active protection
Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders
Practical applications of different lead belays
Introduction to the autoblocking device
Introduction to simple rescue techniques
Day Two:
Introduction to multi-directional anchors
Introduction to anchor and rope management
Introduction to single- and multi-pitch leading procedures
Day Three:
Cleaning anchors and rappelling
Techniques for rappelling multi-pitch lines
Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental
Guided example of a short multi-pitch line
Mock single- and multi-pitch leading practice
Day Four:
Discussion of falling, fall factors, and how they apply to the leader
Continued mock leading practice
Optional falling practice on gear and/or bolted anchors
Optional student-led climbs in single-pitch setting
A note on enrollment:
Confirming this course at the regular cost and length requires at least 3 registrants. With two participants, we can run the course as a 3 day itinerary without changing the pricing; with just one individual we will consider this a 'private course' and charge private rates.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Dates and Locations The Learn to Lead course is offered year round in a variety of locations around the Western United States and Canada.
Winter Locations: October – April
Red Rock Canyon is located just minutes outside the city of Las Vegas, NV.
Moab, UT is near both Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park in south east Utah. It's the gateway to endless climbing on red rock formations in all directions.
Joshua Tree National Park is approximately an hour away from Palm Springs, CA and right next to the Marine base in Twentynine Palms, CA. The climbing at Joshua Tree is very high quality, and because of its legendary parallel-sided cracks it is ideal for people who want to learn to lead climb on granite walls like those of Yosemite.
Summer Locations: April – September
Leavenworth, WA is about forty minutes from Wenatchee or three hours from Seattle on the east side of Washington's mountains.
Mount Erie, WA is climbing area in scenic Anacortes, WA. It is located on Fidalgo Island in lush green PNW forest just off the coast of the Puget Sound. Several mountain ranges and the sound can be seen from the climbs.
Squamish is two hours north of Bellingham, WA and one hour north of Vancouver, BC.
Eldorado Canyon is a mere half hour drive from the city of Boulder, CO.
Mammoth Lakes is in the eastern Sierra, forty minutes north of Bishop, CA, and three hours south of Reno, NV.
Dates
Boulder, CO
Aug. 25 - 28, 2023
Sept. 21 - 24, 2023
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Red Rock, NV
Apr. 21 - 24, 2023 - FULL! Waitlist Available
Additional dates are available on a private basis. Call for details.
Joshua Tree, CA
Additional dates are available on a private basis. Call for details.
Leavenworth, WA
May 7 - May 10, 2023
May 21 - May 24, 2023
June 4 - June 7, 2023
June 18 - June 21, 2023
July 16 - July 19, 2023
Aug 13 - Aug 16, 2023
Aug 27 - Aug 30, 2023
Sep 10 - Sep 13, 2023
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Squamish, BC*
†
July 9 - July 12, 2023
Aug 6 - Aug 9, 2023
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
* All participants in Squamish-based courses must first rendezvous at the AAI Offices in Bellingham and the group must cross the border together. We can not meet climbers in Squamish.
† Dates are tentative and based upon the reopening of US/CAN border. If border is still closed due to COVID, this course will be moved to Leavenworth, WA.
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct. 6 - 9, 2023
Nov. 3 - 6, 2023
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Moab, Utah
Dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Cost and Details $965
Max Ratio - 4:1 (Climber:Guide)
Capacity - 8
Minimum Enrollment - 3
A note on enrollment:
Confirming the 4-day course at the regular cost and length requires at least 3 registrants. With two participants, we can run the course as a 3 day itinerary without changing the pricing; with just one individual we will consider this a 'private course' and charge private rates.
Private Courses:
A private Learn to Lead course can be arranged with the location, length, and dates of your choice. Though the group course is generally preferable for learning, a customized course can be superior for some climbers. The cost for a private course is determined by the private rate for the location.
Prerequisites:
Participants should be able to follow 5.8 (indoors or outdoors) and have some experience in outdoor top-roped climbing.
Cost Inclusions and Exclusions:
Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment, climbing permits, and the guide fee.
Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear, gratuities to guide, transportation, lodging/camping fees, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.
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