Alaska Range Mountaineering

On this program we choose between three possible places: the Kahiltna Glacier, the Ruth Glacier or the Pika Glacier. AAI guides make the decision as to which area makes the most sense due to current conditions in the Alaska Range.

Though we can’t predict conditions, we often fly into the Ruth or Pika glaciers in the early season and the Kahiltna Glacier in the late season. The approach flight by ski plane is an impressive one, with views of immense glaciers, sheer granite walls rising above the ice, and the most famous summits in North America. Above the Kahiltna, we often climb Mt. Francis (10,450ft/3,185m) and Radio Control Tower (8,670ft/2,640m). Above the Ruth Gorge we often climb Mount Barrille (7,605ft/2,318m), Mount Dickey (9,544ft/2,909m), Explorer’s Peak (8,235ft/2,510m), and Mount Dan Beard (10,082ft/3,073m). The Pika Glacier is full of unnamed peaks, many of which have snow couloirs or moderate ridges to their summits.

Ice climbing instruction below Mount Dan Beard, Alaska Range. AAI Collection.

In this program we help you develop a complete repertoire of alpine mountaineering, rescue, and expedition climbing skills. In addition, you will be exposed to a variety of climbing conditions and will begin to develop the ability to respond to those various conditions. Applying different skills and making adjustments in your technique will give you the greatest security while climbing. Long routes, difficult routes, and climbs at altitude all require a high level of efficiency in the climber. In this mountaineering program we not only work to convey a large body of knowledge, but also work to develop your ability to make appropriate decisions and to use that knowledge in future mountain endeavors, either on your own team or with a guide.

This trip includes substantial practice climbing, spectacular scenery, the chance to make the top of beautiful summits, and a lot of fun. We hope you will join us! For similar expeditionary programs in other areas see the six-day Denali Prep Course offered in Washington’s Cascade Range and the fourteen-day St. Elias Range Skills Expedition program in Alaska’s St. Elias Mountains.

Climbing Skills

• Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots, and harnesses
• Design concepts and selection of ice axes and ice tools
• Proper choice and application of the primary ice axe positions; piolet canne, panne, manche, poignard, ramasse, rampe, ancre, and traction
• Choice between and application of French, German, and American cramponing techniques
• Belays on snow and ice
• Selection and placement of snow flukes and pickets, ice screws for belays and protection
• The uses of mechanical belaying devices in alpine climbing
• Free climbing technique on steep snow and ice
• The integration of specific skills with the goals of efficient and safe climbing

Glacier Travel, Rescue, and Living Skills

• An introduction to glacial structures and movement: how to use large external land forms to predict inner glacial structures and hence the difficulties and hazards of a potential route
• Principles of glacier travel while climbing and skiing
• Individual and team crevasse rescue techniques
• Route finding and marking in low visibility
• Snow cave and igloo construction and living
• Leave No Trace principles of climbing, traveling, and living in the alpine environment

Expedition and Skiing Skills

• Discussion of Himalayan, Alaskan and alpine expedition climbing styles with comparisons of the inherent advantages, limitations, and requirements associated with each style
• Expedition processes in icefalls and the establishment and ascension of fixed lines
• Techniques for roped glacier skiing and the use of sleds for transporting gear
• Introduction to intermediate and advanced ski techniques

Physics, Physiology, and Medicine of Cold Weather and Altitude

• An introduction to human physiology in cold weather
• Preventing and treating cold weather injuries
• An introduction to human physiology at high altitude
• Preventing and treating high altitude illnesses

We offer specialized Denali preparation and expedition style programs in many locations! See the six-day Denali Prep Course offered in Washington’s Cascade Range, or the five-day Winter Mountaineering Program held in California’s Sierra Nevada Range.

Skiers heading into the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range. AAI Collection.

AAI guide Kevin McGarity has full sun protection on the glacier.

Max Ratio – 3:1

Max Capacity – 6 climbers

Program Length – 10 days

Inclusions:

• AAI Mountain Guide services, leadership, and instruction
• Ski plane flights to and from the glacier
• Tents and group cooking equipment
• Meals while in the mountains
• Group climbing equipment
• Mechanical ascenders for fixed lines
• Custom expedition sleds

Exclusions: Food and lodging except on the glacier; rescue and evacuation costs; national park fees; baggage, accident, rescue, and trip cancellation insurances; gratuities to guides; personal equipment.

You will need to arrange your travel schedule so that you can attend the mandatory expedition orientation and gear check with guides at our Anchorage hotel at 2pm, the day BEFORE the scheduled start date of the trip.

All trips begin with a meeting and orientation in Anchorage. We spend one night there, then travel by van the next morning to the small town of Talkeetna. There we repack our equipment, meet our ski plane pilots, and as soon as possible, make the beautiful flight to the glacier.

Gaining the ridge on the Mooses Tooth, Alaska Range. Tad McCrea

“Both guides were fantastic mentors of mountaineering – passing along the tricks of the trade to promote safety in glacial navigation.” (Tom Martins, San Jose, CA).

“It was an awesome trip and very, very valuable. I am sooooo glad I decided to invest the money and go on the trip. My guide is a super, super person, lots of experience, lots of patience and I feel better prepared for the daunting task, expect and know it is going to be hard, but also know I will not be so overwhelmed with all the other stuff like roping up, building snow walls etc when we start with the Denali climb.” (Elsie B, South Africa).

“I have never seen a more spectacular spot than the Ruth Gorge. It was an amazing first glacier to be on!” (Ron Goodman, Brainard, NY).

“Our guide knew how and when to lead, set the pace, and push us just up to our limits with great compassion and awareness. He thoroughly explained technical aspects of the expedition and always demonstrated how it is done.” (Kyle Beckstead, Phoenix, AZ).