Denali West Buttress
Lower Kahiltna Glacier
Descend “Heartbreak Hill” to join the huge main fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, one of the longest glaciers in the world at some forty-plus miles. Navigate with loaded sleds through shifting crevasse terrain to Camp 1, with a total gain of only about 400′ over about five and a half miles.
Southeast Fork Base Camp to Camp 1 on the Main Kahiltna Glacier
- Distance: 5.5 miles
- Elevation Gain: 400 feet
- Time: approximate time from BC to Camp 1 = 8 – 11 hours
From Base Camp (7200′), we immediately lose elevation down the aptly named “Heartbreak Hill” to approximately 6800 feet on the main branch of the Kahiltna Glacier. The “Lower Kahiltna”, as it is called, is home to some of the largest crevasses on the mountain and the nature of the climbers’ route through the maze of slots changes drastically throughout the course of the season. Even from the start to the end of your climb, cracks will open and paths will change, creating sometimes tedious navigation through the glacier. Crevasse falls are an annual occurrence on this part of the route and climbers need to remain very alert and be prepared for a fall at any time. AAI teams practice group crevasse rescue on Denali, and most expeditions have three rope teams to assist in crevasse rescue if and when the need arises. It is important to note that we have never had an incident where climbers or guides were injured or seriously harmed due to crevasse rescue scenarios. In fact, AAI teams have repeatedly come to the rescue of other parties in need of assistance on the mountain. Many of our guides have received the honorable “Denali Pro Pin” award for their services and efforts on the mountain.
The route through the lower Kahiltna is fairly gradual, but as we approach Camp 1 at the base of Ski Hill we encounter a few gentle hills and gain a few hundred feet of elevation before descending just slightly into camp.
Most AAI groups make a single carry from Base Camp to Camp 1, and this is often one of the hardest days of the trip. Making a single carry means that instead of traveling the climbing route between Base Camp and Camp 1 twice, you will travel with all of your gear and food in one day. Climbers should expect to have 70-pound backpacks and to be pulling sleds that can weigh upwards of 80 pounds. After mid-May, most teams opt for a night schedule on this portion of the route to avoid the heat of the day on the flat glacier.
