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Training

Training: Lockoffs and Campusing

American Alpine Institute
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The Climbing Movement Essential Training Series on Youtube is kind of awesome. The series is composed of a number of well produced videos that focus on different aspects of training for climbing.

The ability to lockoff your arms right after pulling up is a key movement to steep climbing on both rock and ice. This video explores some workout techniques that you might use to train for this.

In review:

  1. Set-up a campus sequence using big holds. The goal here is to set-up a sequence where you can lock off each move for 3 seconds.
  2. 3 Campus sequences in the wall, with three sets and 90-seconds of rest between sets.
  3. You will climb up and down using this technique until you’re brought to failure.
  4. Failure should happen in 20-40 seconds. If you can hold on longer than 40-seconds, change the holds and make it harder.
  5. Keep track of your time.
  6. And practice!

–Jason D. Martin

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