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The Guiding Life

The Class of 2013 — AAI Guide Training

American Alpine Institute
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The Class of 2013 just finished their guide training. It was an exceptionally strong class. The training included five guides that are completely new to the Institute and one guide that came to us internally.

The AAI guide training for new guides starts with two weeks of technical training. During that time, the guides go to a lot of the places where we work, such as Mt. Erie, Mt. Baker, Leavenworth, Mazama  and Washington Pass. During that time, they are trained in single pitch guide techniques, multi-pitch guide techniques, alpine guide techniques, glacier travel skills, and ski guide techniques.  The initial two week training is the most intensive training offered by any guide service in America.

Once the guides have completed their first fourteen days, they move on to an additional six days of student teaching under the supervision of a senior guide. Guides generally co-teach an Alpinism 1: Intro to Mountaineering course before they’re set loose.

Following is a photo from the training. It is possible to click on any of the pictures to make them larger.

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Doug Foust works with another guide on an attempt to get the van as far up the 

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 On guide training we always try to dig out a creek for access to water.  

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Crevasse Rescue Practice – Something that became really important later on the trip. 

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In this photo, Doug is in a snowseat as the lead team used a drop-c to pull her out.  

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 Mt. Baker with one of our teams below. We climbed the Moustache, 

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 Guides up high on Castle Rock.
From Leavenworth, we made our way to Mazama and Washington Pass. Here we began to work on our technical rescue skills, while also making ascents of alpine rock peaks.

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A gaggle of guides working on rock rescue techniques.

Margaritas

After completing the fourteen-day technical training, the guides spent the next 

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From Left to Right: Jason Martin (Guide Trainer and Manager), Jeremy Devine, 

Mike Powers (Lead Guide Trainer), Jared Drapala, 

Shelby Carpenter, Britt Ruegger, Kai Girard, and Doug Foust
–Jason D. Martin

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