Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Overview
The Outdoor Life Network included this course in a recent series on America's Top 10 Adventure Sports Camps. Although this is definitely not a "camp" in the traditional sense, rather it is a rigorous alpine climbing course with small groups (maximum 10 climbers) in a remote wilderness setting. It is one of AAI's classics and perhaps the most comprehensive one-week climbing course in the nation, unbeatable for its combination of fun, learning, and achievement.
American Alpine Institute - Alpinism 1 from John Grace on Vimeo.
The course provides a complete introduction to off-trail alpine travel and to all the fundamental skills of rock, snow, and ice climbing. We spend one day in an easily accessible
rock climbing area, and five days learning and applying the skills of glacier travel and snow and ice climbing. On the fifth day, we set up a high glacier camp (with some of the most remarkable mountain and ocean views in America), and on the final day, we climb to the rugged, ice-encrusted summit of 10,778-foot Mt. Baker.
The incredible Sherman Crater of Mt. Baker. The final push to the summit skirts the crater rim on the left and ascends the snow slope called the 'Roman Wall' to the left of the photo. Ryan Slaybaugh
The Intro to Alpinism course is conducted largely above timberline in the high country of
North Cascades National Park and Mt. Baker National Forest. Distances covered while backpacking into our base camps are kept to a minimum, usually about four miles, because of our emphasis on skills development and practice climbing.
You'll come away awed by the terrain you have seen, proud of your accomplishments, and you will have the knowledge and experience to be a skilled rope team member on climbs of intermediate difficulty. You'll enjoy our expert guides and instructors and you'll be impressed by how much you enjoy and accomplish in a week with us in the mountains!
Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Curriculum
Our principal goals in this program are:
To make mountain enthusiasts with little or no previous climbing experience capable of gaining safe access to trailless, wilderness alpine areas.
To make them proficient in all basic alpine mountaineering skills for rock, snow, and ice.
To help them understand and protect the fragile alpine environment. We work hard to instill in participants an appreciation of both specific concepts and specific techniques that will allow them to travel through and climb in alpine areas skillfully, confidently, and
without leaving a trace.
Upon completion of the program, each participant should be qualified as a technically competent rope team member capable of making alpine mountaineering ascents on routes of intermediate difficulty.
An AAI group takes a break during 'snow school' to show their enthusiasm for learning new skills. Dyan Padagas
This course is intended to serve as an intensive and complete introduction to off-trail alpine travel, and to all the fundamental alpine mountaineering skills of rock, snow, and ice climbing. The course is presented in the most highly glaciated area in the conterminous forty-eight states and offers exposure to an unusually large variety of landforms and climbing surfaces. Groups are small and individual attention is very great, allowing instructors to respond to participants who are progressing at different rates or who want emphasis on different parts of the curriculum.
Selection and use of
personal equipment Selection and use of ropes, knots, and harnesses
Selection and use of rock, snow, & ice anchors for belays & intermediate protection
Belaying techniques on rock, snow, and ice
Free climbing techniques on low and high angle rock, snow, and ice
Principles of glacier travel & route finding
Self-arrest; rappelling, & prusiking
The concept and application of the self-belay
Individual & team
crevasse rescue techniques
General Mountain Skills:
Leave No Trace travel, camping, and climbing
An introduction to alpine ecology
Map, compass, altimeter and GPS use: reading, intersection, and triangulation
Evaluation and prediction of mountain weather patterns
Introduction to avalanche hazard evaluation
Introduction to first aid and the evacuation of injured climbers
Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Itinerary
We meet at AAI's headquarters in Bellingham, WA to check gear
and take care of any rental equipment needed. We spend several
hours on equipment, answering questions, and making sure everyone
has what they need to make the week a success.
Climbers coil their rope at the end of a great day at Mt.
By mid-morning we head for the climbing, driving south just an
hour to Mt. Erie, a coastal crag overlooking northern Puget Sound
and the beautiful San Juan Islands in three directions, and looking
out to glacier covered Mt. Baker in the other. The rock at Mt. Erie
is excellent, and the moderate routes provide a perfect training
area for covering all the basics of free climbing, rappelling,
anchor placement, and belaying. We practice hand and foot
placements and knot tying, and each team member spends substantial
time belaying and climbing a variety of short routes. By the end of
the day, you should feel confident on mid-fifth class rock, have a
clear sense of how ropes and protective systems work, and be able
to climb moderate rock with ease.
The next day we make the short drive to Mt. Baker. We drive a
Forest Service road to an elevation of 3200 feet, and then make a
moderate hike of about five miles through climax fir forest and
sub-alpine terrain to the Easton Glacier. Depending on the time of
year, the trail can provide views of a remarkable array of
wildflowers in the sub-alpine zones. We set up our base camp on a
lateral moraine of the Easton which gives us easy access to the
glacier and views across it to Mt. Baker's summit and impressive
nearby peaks. As the week progresses, we cover a complete
repertoire of alpine skills, starting with each technique on gentle
ground and gradually applying it to steeper terrain. We continue
our practice of anchor placement and belaying, but spend a lot of
time perfecting cramponing technique and the use of the ice axe in
a variety of positions.
Throughout the program we discuss the ethics of Leave No Trace
(LNT) travel, camping and climbing, and employ LNT techniques in
all that we do. In addition to working on the "hard skills" of
snow, ice, and glacier climbing, we also cover the complexities of
route finding and hazard assessment. We help each participant
become proficient in the use of map, compass, and altimeter,
perceptive in route finding and evaluation skills, and thorough in
the assessment of objective hazards.
Prussik practice for crevasse self-rescue.
Glacier travel skills, including proper rope techniques and
crevasse rescue, receive thorough attention. By the end of the
practice sessions, each participant should be able to climb or
prussik out of a crevasse and rescue a partner by using the
mechanical advantage of a pulley system.
On the final two days of the program, team members apply all the
skills they have been practicing as we establish an advanced camp
high on the Easton Glacier and then make a climb to the summit. On
the climb to high camp, we will travel through crevasse fields
where good route finding is crucial and climb over both easy and
moderate terrain where we apply a range of snow and ice climbing
The next morning we'll start climbing by 2:00am, taking
advantage of the cool nighttime temperatures to give us the best
possible footing on the glacier. Ascending slopes that are a little
steeper than the previous day, we'll first climb to the lip of
ice-choked Sherman Crater where we will see steam fumaroles
rising from fissures in the ice. Continuing up Grant Peak, we will
summit shortly after sunrise, and from Baker's highest point enjoy
sweeping views that stretch from the Canadian border peaks in the
north, across the islands in the San Juan archipelago to the west,
and out to the hundreds of peaks in the Cascades to the south and
east for a spectacular climax to a great week of climbing.
After bringing together all the techniques you have acquired in
a rewarding individual and team effort to reach the summit, you'll
be leaving this course with a strong set of skills that make you
capable of gaining safe access to trailless, wilderness alpine
areas, proficient in all basic alpine mountaineering skills for
rock, snow, and ice, and skilled in Leave No Trace travel, camping,
and climbing techniques. Upon completion of the program, you should
be qualified as a technically competent rope team member capable of
making ascents of alpine routes of intermediate difficulty.
Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Dates & Details
May 2 - May 7, 2016
May 8 - May 13, 2016
May 15 - May 20, 2016
May 22 - May 27, 2016
May 30 - Jun 4, 2016
Jun 5 - Jun 10, 2016
Jun 13 - Jun 18, 2016
Jun 19 - Jun 24, 2016
Jun 27 - Jul 2, 2016
Jul 3 - Jul 8, 2016
Jul 11 - Jul 16, 2016
Jul 17 - Jul 22, 2016
Jul 25 - Jul 30, 2016
Jul 31 - Aug 5, 2016
Aug 8 - Aug 13, 2016
Aug 14 - Aug 19, 2016
Aug 22 - Aug 27, 2016
Aug 38 - Sep 2, 2016
Sep 5 - Sep 10, 2016
Sep 11- Sep 16, 2016
Sep 19 - Sep 24, 2016
Sep 25 - Sep 30, 2016
Cost - $1190
Max Ratio - 5:1 or 10:2 (Climber:Guide)
Capacity - 10
Good physical condition
Overnight backpacking experience
If you lack overnight backpacking experience, you can add a 2-day
course (with a 10% discount) and go straight into Alpinism 1. backpacking and wilderness skills
Cost Inclusions and Exclusions
Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment (personal climbing equipment is available for rent at a nominal charge), transportation to the climbing areas from AAI headquarters, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.
Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear (including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, tent, etc), gratuities to guide, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.
We also offer a porter program for individuals who require physical assistance.
Contact us for more information.
Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Testimonials
Learning proper cramponing technique on the spectacular glaciers of
Mt. Baker. Andrew Yasso
"Few things in life turn out to be as advertised. The Alpinism 1
program I just completed is one of those few, and more. It was an
overwhelmingly positive experience. Our guides Alasdair and Richard
are fine leaders and teachers. I felt comfortable and confident in
their hands, and learned a great deal from them. I'm already
looking forward to my next climbing adventure with you. Thanks for
a marvelous time, and best regards."
David Bruhn, Hudson, WI
"We agreed our guide was the greatest. He instinctively knew
where we were on our skill progression, what he needed to tell us,
and what he needed to leave unsaid. His directions and demos were
crystal clear and he was generous with his time and expertise. I
have been taught /guided by a lot of great professionals in various
adventure sports but based on the past six days, I think our guide
was the best of all."
Jim Ledvinka, Athens, GA
"In my search to find the right organization to help me achieve
my goal to climb Denali, I researched about ten guide services.
American Alpine Institute met or exceeded all of the others in
training, experience, and integrity. I would not consider climbing
with anyone else but AAI."
Tim Bullard, Houston, TX
"I would not hesitate to come back and climb with AAI. My
experience was wonderful and my guide was a true
Donald Rickson, Westfield, MA
"During the ascent of Mt. Baker, our guide encouraged us to
explore our limits, but took great care to make certain that we
never felt "in over our heads", and was very vigilant in protecting
Andy Meacham, Denver, CO
Alpinism 1 - Introduction to Mountaineering Related Courses
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Canada - British Columbia
South America - Argentina
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South America - Peru
Europe - Alps and Caucasus
Asia - Nepal and Tibet
Asia - China
Africa - Tanzania
Pacific and Antarctica
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