Alpine Ice Climbing – Introduction

The Alpine Ice curriculum builds on your existing mountaineering foundation and introduces the techniques and systems required for climbing steep alpine ice. Students spend time developing efficient movement on vertical terrain, learning how to place protection in ice, and practicing the rope systems used on multi-pitch climbs. Instruction balances technical skill development with strategies for climbing as part of a team in complex alpine environments.

Students Will Learn: 

• Design concepts, performance, and selection of ice axes & technical tools
• Proper choice between and application of the primary ice axe positions: piolet canne, panne, manche, poignard, ramasse, rampe, ancre, and traction
• Choice between and application of American, French, and German cramponing techniques
• Proper selection and placement of ice screws, snow flukes & pickets for belays and intermediate protection
• The uses of mechanical belay devices in alpine climbing
• Specialized designs and uses of alpine and technical tools in high-angle climbing
• Setting up and operating belays
• The use of ski glissades for ease and speed of descent
• Glacial structure and movement: using large external landforms to predict inner glacial structures and hence the difficulties and hazards of a potential route
• Evaluation of the objective hazards of avalanches, rockfall, and icefall
• Route finding and summit strategies
• Leave No Trace principles

This course culminates in a summit attempt on which team members deal with logistics, challenging free climbing, the operation of a wide range of protective systems, & route finding. Routes are chosen for each rope team according to the proficiency demonstrated by the participants during the course. Most commonly, they are Mt. Baker’s North Ridge, Roosevelt Headwall, Roman Mustache, or Coleman Headwall. Easier routes may be climbed when appropriate for conditions.

​Prerequisites

• Good physical fitness
• Ability to carry a 45 – 55 lb backpack for multiple hours
• Stamina to hike for over 8 hours (including breaks, and with lesser pack weight)
• Basic multi-day alpine mountaineering experience
• Basic snow climbing and glacier travel skills
• Knowledge and proficiency with crevasse rescue systems

If you lack any of these skills or experience, you can enroll in our Alpinism 1 course.

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost are group technical climbing equipment like ropes and pickets, transportation to the climbing areas from AAI headquarters, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost are all personal clothing and climbing gear, rentals, gratuities to the guide, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.

Take Your Skills to the Next Level

The Alpine Ice course curriculum is also part of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership 2 (AMTL 2) program.  For those looking for a more comprehensive experience that also includes multi-pitch alpine rock, self-rescue techniques, and a broader set of leadership skills, AMTL 2 is the perfect next step. Upgrading to the full program lets you expand your skill set, build confidence in a wider range of alpine terrain, and fully immerse yourself in the technical leadership progression.

Private Options

This program is also available as a private climb.  If you can’t make the public course dates work for you or would rather learn at your own pace, we can build a private course to meet your individual needs.