Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Overview

Men's Journal calls this program "the country's most respected and thorough rock and mountaineering course." It has three 12-day segments, and you can choose to take one, two, three, or all four. Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership (AMTL) Part 1 provides a comprehensive introduction to all the skills of alpine mountaineering, general team leadership, and leading rope teams on glaciers. AMTL Part 2 develops techniques for leading multi-pitch rock routes while further advancing technical and evaluative skills on snow, ice, and rock. AMTL Part 3 allows you to continue to develop your technical leadership skills while providing an opportunity to focus those skills on one of three areas. AMTL Part 4 is an expedition in which all of the skills developed are employed in a remote and complex big mountain setting. 

American Alpine Institute from John Grace on Vimeo.

After completing AMTL Part 1, you may chose to continue with the next program segments in order to rapidly develop well-rounded technical leadership skills. But you also have the choice of joining a climbing trip or expedition in the US or abroad or joining one of our shorter follow-up programs such as our 4-day Learn to Lead, 6-day Alpine Ice, 6-day Denali Prep, or others. We can advise you on your best options in light of your interests and future climbing goals.

This program has been described by National Accreditation reviewers as "the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership offered in America." 

  • Take one or all four parts of this course: 12, 24, 36, or 48 days
  • Take the course in one year or over the course of two, three or four years.
  • Complete all four parts and receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Curriculum & Structure

AMTL Part 1 - Comprehensive Skills & Intro to Leadership

In this first 12-day program, we help you develop a very complete set of alpine climbing skills for rock, snow, and ice, from the basics on up, and as we progress through each set of skills, we will provide you with a lot of enjoyable practice climbing so you can master each technique. You will learn route finding and hazard assessment skills as well as self-rescue. Through the course you will make a series of classic alpine ascents on rock routes and on major glaciers, and you and your fellow team members will lead the final climb as you apply all the climbing and leadership skills learned during the program.

Climbing steep snow on the N. Ridge of Mt. Baker.

Climbing steep snow on the N. Ridge of Mt. Baker. Jason Martin

We place as much emphasis on good mountain judgment as we do on the development of technical skills, and throughout this course we'll be helping you observe and analyze climbing routes, terrain features, and hazards so that by the end of the program you will have developed the ability to lead a small team safely through a rugged and complex environment and rope teams on basic and intermediate alpine routes. The climbs we make typically include four or five of the following: Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Cutthroat Peak, South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, and Silver Star. Join this course for excellent skills development, diverse and beautiful alpine climbing experience, and preparation for leading your own alpine climbing teams.


360 degree panorama from the summit of Cutthroat Peak, one of the possible summits during the AMTL 1 course. James Pierson

Curriculum Highlights

Alpine Travel & Climbing Skills

  • Selection & use of personal equipment as well as ropes, knots, & harnesses
  • Design concepts, selection, & use of technical equipment for rock, snow, & ice climbing
  • The uses of map, compass, altimeter, and GPS
  • Principles of glacier travel & route finding
  • Belaying techniques on rock, snow, & ice
  • The concept and application of the self-belay
  • Self-arrest from all positions
  • Free climbing technique on rock, snow, & ice
  • French, German, and American cramponing techniques
  • Interrelationship, choice between, & application of all principal ice axe positions
  • Rappelling & prusiking
  • Glissading for speed & ease of descent

 

Objective Hazards Evaluation & Self-Rescue Skills

  • Evaluation & prediction of mountain weather patterns
  • Introduction to the assessment of natural hazards
  • Individual & team crevasse rescue techniques

 

Leadership Skills

  • Technical & personal functions of individuals in the rope team; role and responsibility
  • Problem solving: gathering appropriate data & assessment techniques
  • Evolving leadership roles: individual leadership vs. collective decision making

 

Environmental Protection Skills

  • An introduction to alpine ecology
  • Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

 

An AAI group approaches their Mt. Baker basecamp through a vast wonderland of alpine wilderness.

An AAI group approaches their Mt. Baker basecamp through a vast wonderland of alpine wilderness.
Ryan Slaybaugh

 

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Dates & Details

  • May 4 - May 15, 2015
  • May 17 - May 28, 2015
  • Jun 1 - Jun 12, 2015
  • Jun 15 - Jun 26, 2015
  • Jun 29 - Jul 10, 2015
  • Jul 13 - Jul 24, 2015
  • Jul 27 - Aug 7, 2015
  • Aug 10 - Aug 21, 2015
  • Aug 24 - Sep 4, 2015
  • Sep 7 - Sep 18, 2015

 

Details

Max Ratio - 5:1 (Climber:Guide)

Capacity - 9

Prerequisites - Backpacking Skills

Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership, Part 1

Testimonials

"The 4-part course was just what we were looking for: a systematic way to learn how to lead on rock and glaciers, starting from minimal experience on those media. By going through the course, we now have a whole new dimension to explore on our backcountry trips."
Myron and Adele, Laramie, WY

"This course is one of the best things I've ever done. The course is amazing. It's basically like living, instead of reading Freedom of the Hills. It is a tremendous base to build a climbing career on, not to mention you'll get to climb some beautiful peaks. It changed my life. I'm telling my friends they have to do it!"
Denise Lambright, St. Louis

 

AMTL 1 - Shuksan

Mt. Shuksan, one of the most photographed peaks in the Cascades and a common objective for the AMTL 1 Course. Rick Kaiser

"My guide met and exceeded every expectation I had. The combination of his knowledge, skills, teaching ability, and personality were more than I would have dared to hope for."
Rob Lindner, Ashford, WA

"The guides were excellent! No time was wasted - and they took every opportunity to teach us something new. They also took the time to get to know us well and conformed the course to our abilities and desires"
Deanna Yurchuck, New York, NY

"I enjoyed the curriculum because I thought it started out where I was at, but it didn't move too slowly."
Chris Petersen, Dallas, TX

"I chose AAI because they were the most interactive when trying to determine which company to use. They answered all of my emails and phone calls, and worked with me to find a course that suited my needs.  They also offered the most skills focused course that fostered independence in the mountains, opposed to simply offering a service to take me up and down a mountain."
Rory Brown, Newbury, MA

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