Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership
Overview
A climber starts up Tonto (5.5) in Red Rocks, NV. Jason Martin
For many the thought of being out on the sharp end of the rope sends shivers up the spine. "What if I fall? What if my gear doesn't hold? What if something happens?" Our Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership course will answer these questions and more. The objective of this program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and movement skills.
The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb.
Course highlights include:
- Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
- Introduction to modern traditional technique
- Anchor building techniques and management
- Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
- Technical free climbing movement for a leader
Introduction to Rock Leadership is offered throughout the winter season in Red Rock Canyon, NV and in Joshua Tree National Park, CA. During the summer season this course is offered in Leavenworth, WA and in Squamish, BC.
Course participants are encouraged to bring their own traditional gear. However, if they do not have any, they will be able to use AAI equipment. Helmets, harnesses, and rock shoes are required equipment and are available for rental if needed.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership
Curriculum
The curriculum for Learn to Lead varies considerably with the abilities and desires of the group. Our goal is to assess the baseline abilities in the group and build on them as much as possible. Below is a sample curriculum.
Day One:
Efficient and effective gear placement is a crucial skill to master while learning how to lead. Eric Smith
- Meet your guide at the program area in the morning (8:00am or 11:00am depending on location and date)
- Selection, use and care of traditional gear
- Discuss traditional racking techniques
- Practical applications of both passive and active protection
- Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders
- Practical applications of different lead belays
- Introduction to the autoblocking device
- Introduction to simple rescue techniques
Day Two:
- Introduction to multi-directional anchors
- Introduction to anchor and rope management
- Introduction to single- and multi-pitch leading procedures
Day Three:
- Cleaning anchors and rappelling
- Techniques for rappelling multi-pitch lines
- Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental
- Guided example of a short multi-pitch line
- Mock single- and multi-pitch leading practice
Day Four:
- Discussion of falling, fall factors, and how they apply to the leader
- Continued mock leading practice
- Optional falling practice on gear and/or bolted anchors
- Optional student-led climbs in single-pitch setting
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership
Cost and Details
$790
Max Ratio - 4:1 (Climber:Guide)
Capacity - 8
Prerequisites
Participants should be able to follow 5.8 (indoors or outdoors)
and have some experience in outdoor top-roped climbing.
