Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Overview
A climber starts up Tonto (5.5) in Red Rocks, NV. Jason Martin
For many the thought of being out on the sharp end of the rope sends shivers up the spine. "What if I fall? What if my gear doesn't hold? What if something happens?" Our Introduction to Traditional Rock Leadership course will answer these questions and more. The objective of this program is to introduce climbers to the techniques required for leading single and multi-pitch traditional rock routes while advancing technical and movement skills.
The Introduction to Rock Leadership course addresses each of the components required to safely and successfully lead a traditional rock climb.
Course highlights include:
Care and selection of traditional climbing gear
Introduction to modern traditional technique
Anchor building techniques and management
Leader safety in both a single and a multi-pitch environment
Technical free climbing movement for a leader
Introduction to Rock Leadership is offered throughout the winter season in Red Rock Canyon, NV and in Joshua Tree National Park, CA. During the summer season this course is offered in Leavenworth, WA and in Squamish, BC.
Course participants are encouraged to bring their own traditional gear. However, if they do not have any, they will be able to use AAI equipment. Helmets, harnesses, and rock shoes are required equipment and are available for rental if needed.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Curriculum The curriculum for Learn to Lead varies considerably with the abilities and desires of the group. Our goal is to assess the baseline abilities in the group and build on them as much as possible. Below is a sample curriculum.
Day One:
Efficient and effective gear placement is a crucial skill to master while learning how to lead. Eric Smith
Meet your guide at the program area in the morning (8:00am or 11:00am depending on location and date)
Selection, use and care of traditional gear
Discuss traditional racking techniques
Practical applications of both passive and active protection
Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders
Practical applications of different lead belays
Introduction to the autoblocking device
Introduction to simple rescue techniques
Day Two:
Introduction to multi-directional anchors
Introduction to anchor and rope management
Introduction to single- and multi-pitch leading procedures
Day Three:
Cleaning anchors and rappelling
Techniques for rappelling multi-pitch lines
Discussion of lead climbing strategies, both physical and mental
Guided example of a short multi-pitch line
Mock single- and multi-pitch leading practice
Day Four:
Discussion of falling, fall factors, and how they apply to the leader
Continued mock leading practice
Optional falling practice on gear and/or bolted anchors
Optional student-led climbs in single-pitch setting
A note on enrollment:
Confirming this course at the regular cost and length requires at least 3 registrants. With two participants, we can run the course as a 3 day itinerary without changing the pricing; with just one individual we will consider this a 'private course' and charge private rates.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Dates and Locations The Learn to Lead course is offered year round in a variety of locations around the Western United States and Canada.
Winter: October – April
Red Rock Canyon, NV
Moab, UT
Joshua Tree National Park, CA
Summer: April – September
Leavenworth, WA
Mount Erie, WA
Squamish, BC
Eldorado Canyon, CO
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Red Rock Canyon is located just minutes outside the city of Las Vegas, NV.
Joshua Tree National Park is approximately an hour away from Palm Springs, CA and right next to the Marine base in Twentynine Palms, CA. The climbing at Joshua Tree is very high quality, and because of its legendary parallel-sided cracks it is ideal for people who want to learn to lead climb on granite walls like those of Yosemite.
Leavenworth, WA is about forty minutes from Wenatchee or three hours from Seattle on the east side of Washington's mountains.
Mount Erie is an hour and a half north of Seattle, near Anacortes, WA.
Squamish is two hours north of Bellingham, WA and one hour north of Vancouver, BC.
Eldorado Canyon is a mere half hour drive from the city of Boulder, CO.
Mammoth Lakes is in the eastern Sierra, fourty minutes north of Bishop, CA, and three hours south of Reno, NV.
Dates
Eldorado Canyon, CO
April 4 - 7, 2018
April 10 - 12, 2018 - Full
April 21 - 24, 2018
April 24 - 27, 2018 - Filling!
May 8 - 11, 2018
June 25 - 28, 2018
July 9 - 12, 2018
Aug 7 - 10, 2018 - Filling!
Aug 13 - 16, 2018
Aug 21 - 24, 2018
Sept 4 - 7, 2018
Sept 11 - 14, 2018
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Red Rock, NV
Sept 28 - Oct 01, 2017 - (1 spot left)
Nov 27 - 30, 2017 - (3 spots left)
Dec 28 - 31, 2017 - (2 spots left)
Jan 26 - 29, 2018 FULL
Feb 19 - 22, 2018 FULL
Mar 19 - 22, 2018 FULL
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Joshua Tree, CA
Oct 20 - 23, 2017
Nov 13 - 16, 2017
Jan 15 - 18, 2018 - (2 spots left)
Feb 19 - 22, 2018
April 02 - 05, 2018 (Group Campsites Reserved*) - FULL
April 02 - 05, 2018 Women Only Course! (Group Campsite Reserved*) - (2 spots left)
*A Group Campsite has been reserved for all April Joshua Tree courses, you have the option to join other participants here or choose your own lodging or camping.
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Leavenworth, WA
May 13 - 16, 2018
May 27 - 30, 2018 - Filling!
Jun 10 - 13, 2018
Jun 24 - 27, 2018 - Filling!
Jul 08 - 11, 2018 - Filling!
Jul 22 - 25, 2018
Aug 05 - 08, 2018
Aug 19 - 22, 2018
Sep 02 - 13, 2018
Squamish, BC*
Jun 01 - 04, 2018
Jul 13 - 16, 2018
Aug 10 - 13, 2018
Aug 24 - 27, 2018
* All participants in Squamish-based courses must first rendezvous at the AAI Offices in Bellingham and the group must cross the border together. We can not meet climbers in Squamish.
Mammoth Lakes, CA
April 18 - 21, 2018
May 19 -22, 2018
June 10 - 13, 2018
July 25 - 28, 2018
August 22 - 25, 2018
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Moab, Utah
April 4 - 7, 2018 - Filling!
Sept 25 - 28, 2018
Oct 1 - 4, 2018
Oct 9 - 12, 2018
Oct 15 - 18, 2018
Oct 23 - 26, 2018
Oct 29 - Nov 1, 2018
More dates available on a private basis. Call for details.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Cost and Details $865
Max Ratio - 4:1 (Climber:Guide)
Capacity - 8
Minimum Enrollment - 2
Private Courses
A private Learn to Lead course can be arranged with the location, length, and dates of your choice. Though the group course is generally preferable for learning, a customized course can be superior for some climbers. The cost for a private course is determined by the private rate for the location.
Prerequisites
Participants should be able to follow 5.8 (indoors or outdoors) and have some experience in outdoor top-roped climbing.
Cost Inclusions and Exclusions
Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment, climbing permits, and the guide fee.
Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is all personal clothing and climbing gear, gratuities to guide, transportation, lodging/camping fees, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.
Learn to Lead - Trad Rock Climbing Leadership Related Courses
Program Finder
By Location
United States - Alaska
United States - Washington
United States - California
United States - Nevada
United States - Colorado
United States - Utah
Canada - British Columbia
South America - Argentina
South America - Bolivia
South America - Ecuador
South America - Patagonia
South America - Peru
Europe - Alps and Caucasus
Asia - Nepal and Tibet
Asia - China
Africa - Tanzania
Pacific and Antarctica
By Program Type
Instructional Courses
Group Summit Climbs
Expeditions
Skills Expeditions
Private Guided Programs
Treks, Tours, & Backpacking
Corporate Outings & Services
Government & Military
By Activity
Rock Climbing
Ice Climbing
Alpine Climbing
High-Altitude Climbing
Trekking and Backpacking
Skiing & Snowboarding
Guide Training & Rescue
Avalanche Training
Departure Month
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Difficulty Level
Beginner
Moderate
Intermediate
Advanced
Very Advanced
x