Curriculum

The third part of our Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series includes advanced alpine mountaineering and rock climbing, aid climbing and big wall techniques, and advanced rescue systems.  It is our primary goal that upon completion of this program, you will be able to function successfully as an alpine climbing leader at an advanced level.

In this third 12-day segment of the program, you will develop more sophisticated technical skills on rock, snow and ice while making ascents of technical rock routes using both free and aid techniques as well as continuing to explore the rugged glaciers and high peaks of North Cascades National Park. This is one of the rare courses in the world that specifically teaches techniques for leading on rock, snow, and ice. You will increase your proficiency in free climbing and mountaineering, learn the techniques required to climb big wall aid routes, and become capable of setting up sophisticated rescue systems.

Climbers who successfully complete all four parts of this program receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Students Will Learn:

  • Equipment selection and use for aid, mixed, and free climbing
  • Advanced rigging and multi-pitch systems
  • Big wall gear: etriers, daisies, ascenders, haul bags, portaledges, hooks, cams, etc.
  • Fixed lines, hauling systems, pendulums, and bivy techniques
  • Clean aid methods and hanging belay management
  • Strategy for multi-pitch climbing, descents, and multi-day routes
  • Efficiency in multi-pitch rappelling, descent options, and transitions
  • Route finding and competency in complex terrain
  • Raising and lowering an injured climber
  • Advanced crevasse rescue systems
  • Weather evaluation and prediction
  • Assessing natural hazards
  • Roles and responsibilities on an ascent
  • Problem-solving and decision-making strategies
  • Balancing individual leadership with team decision-making
  • Vertical ecology awareness
  • Leave No Trace travel, camping, and climbing practices
  • Focused skills practice sessions
  • Practical application of multi-pitch climbing techniques

Details

Prerequisites

  • Successful completion of AMTL I and AMTL II or equivalent experience.
  • Ability to confidently and smoothly lead 5.6 traditional rock.
  • Ability to lead multipitch rock climbs and descents.
  • Ability to build a traditional rock anchor without direct supervision.
  • Ability to properly rig an autoblocking device in a multi-pitch environment.
  • Strong understanding of French Technique.
  • Ability to lead 45-degree ice.
  • Ability to confidently lead a rope team in glaciated terrain.

​Before starting AMTL 3, students are expected to be efficient and proficient in the skills taught in AMTL 1 and 2. We strongly recommend taking a season between the first two courses and the final two to refine and solidify those skills. Students who choose to take the courses back-to-back must be able to demonstrate proficiency in all material from AMTL 2 before beginning AMTL 3.

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost are group technical climbing equipment like ropes and pickets, transportation to the climbing areas from AAI headquarters, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost are all personal clothing and climbing gear, rentals, gratuities to the guide, meals, or travel insurance

Course Options

Take Your Skills to the Next Level

If you don’t have the time to take this 12-day course, you can take the shorter courses that make up part of the AMTL 3 curriculum, such as Aid Climbing and Big Wall Techniques and Multi-Pitch Skills.   After completing AMTL Part 3, you may choose to continue with Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership 4 to develop well-rounded technical leadership skills on an expedition-style course. If you want to complete the entire Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series, you can take the courses whenever they fit into your schedule.  If you complete all 4 parts, you will receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

Navigate with Confidence

While this program includes backcountry navigation, time on the mountain is limited. Many climbers choose to expand their skills by adding the full-day Backcountry Navigation Comprehensive program. This add-on gives you extra practice and confidence with route-finding, map reading, and glacier navigation, ensuring you’re fully prepared to move independently and efficiently in the backcountry.

When to Climb in the Cascades

Every month in the Cascades tells a different story. Early, mid, and late summer each bring unique conditions that affect your climb. See how the season you choose can shape your route, snow conditions, and overall experience in this article.