Curriculum

Winter mountaineering is extremely subject to route conditions, snowpack, and weather. All these conditions dictate, to some extent, which subjects will be covered in detail.  Core topics of instruction include introductions to:

The Physics & Physiology of Cold Weather

  • An introduction to human physiology in cold weather
  • Equipment, clothing, and shelter for the winter and expedition climber
  • Internal maintenance – food and hydration in a cold environment
  • A short introduction to avalanche safety, including snowpack mechanics, avalanche release mechanisms, route selection, and hazard mitigation (for a complete introduction, take our Avalanche Level 1 course)
  • A brief introduction to avalanche rescue procedures (to become proficient, take the complete Avalanche Rescue course)

Winter and Expeditionary Climbing and Protective Systems

  • Selection and use of ropes, knots and harnesses
  • Design concept, selection and use of ice axe and secondary hand tools
  • Proper choice and application of the primary ice axe positions
  • Use of crampons, including French, German, and American techniques
  • Selection and placement of snow and/or ice anchors for protection and belays
  • Winter rock climbing and mixed climbing skills
  • Establishment and maintenance of fixed lines and fixed protection

Skills for Winter Travel

  • Techniques for snowshoeing varied backcountry snow conditions
  • Techniques for snowshoeing with a pack in low and high angle terrain
  • Route finding and tour planning
  • White-out navigation using both map & compass and a GPS
  • Leave No Trace ethics in climbing, camping, and travel

Information Details

Prerequisites

  • Excellent physical fitness
  • Previous overnight backpacking experience
  • Previous experience camping on snow
  • Ability to cook for yourself on a backpacking stove

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost are group technical climbing equipment like ropes and rock protection, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost are all personal clothing and climbing gear, rentals, gratuities to the guide, meals, or travel insurance.  You are responsible for your own lodging on nights that your group isn’t in the backcountry.