Ama Dablam Expedition

Overview

Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by a New Zealand and American team and we follow their original route, the southwest ridge. A seven-day trek into Lobuche Base Camp (15,750/4,800m) through the Khumbu Valley provides exceptional views of Ama Dablam, while we experience the culture and hospitality of the Sherpa people.

Once established in Base Camp, we review climbing skills before moving to Lobuche High Camp (17,720/5,400m) and attempting a climb of Lobuche East. This warm-up climb provides essential acclimatization as well as a chance to practice the skills required to climb Ama Dablam.

Before long, we turn towards our main objective and trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. We move loads to Camp 1 (19,052/5,807m) via a long slope to the beginning of the Southwest Ridge proper. This is where the technical climbing begins as the route follows the spine of the rock ridge bringing us up directly to Camp 2 (20,594/6,277m). The exposed nature of the route makes for exciting climbing, yet the it is not as steep as one would imagine. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route.

On summit day, the route weaves between the ice cliffs and then follows a snow arête directly onto the 22,402ft/6,828m summit.

Alex Geary Liza Climbing Below Camp 3

Alex Geary Liza climbing below camp 3 - AAI Collection

Ama Dablam Expedition

Itinerary and Route

From Kathmandu, we fly to the villlage of Lukla and follow the Khumbu Valley to Namche Bazaar. Acclimatising along the way and relishing the hospitality provided by our Sherpa friends, we reach Lobuche Base Camp
(4,800 m/15,750 ft) and after some rest and preparation, we attempt an ascent of Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft).

A small group of Climbing Sherpas will assist with the load carrying, but no more will be engaged in order to avoid clogging the route and spoiling the nature of the climb. When the fixed line is in place and the two camps are established and stocked we will make a bid for the summit.

Ample supplies will be available to support all members. Guides and Sherpas will carry all group gear but members are expected to carry their own personal gear. Lightweight hand-held radios will be used to coordinate the movements on the mountain and provide a safety back-up.

Itinerary

DAY 1: Meet in Kathmandu for a team briefing.
DAY 2: Equipment check and sightseeing in Kathmandu.
DAY 3: Fly to Lukla (9,383ft/2,860m) and make a three hour trek to Phakding (8,563ft/2,610m).
DAY 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar (11,286ft/3,440m), 5hrs.
DAY 5: Sightseeing in Namche Bazaar, possible day walk to Khumjung (12,402ft/3,780m) and Khunde (12,598ft/3,840m).
DAY 6: Trek to Phortse (12,959/3,950m), 5-6hrs.
DAY 7: Phortse to Pheriche (14,009ft/4,270m).
DAY 8: Rest day and acclimitization.
DAY 9: Pheriche to Lobuche Base Camp (15,750ft/4,800m).
DAY 10: Rest at Lobuche Base Camp.
DAY 11: Training day at Lobuche Base Camp.
DAY 12: Climb to High Camp on Lobuche East (17,720ft/5,400m).
DAY 13: Summit Bid on Lobuche East (20,075/6,119m), return to Base Camp.
DAY 14: Lobuche Base Camp to Pheriche.
DAY 15: Move to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
DAY 16 - 21: Ama Dablam summit bid.
DAY 22: Descend to Base Camp.
DAY 23: Contingency day.
DAY 24: Depart Base Camp to Pangboche.
DAY 25: Trek to Namche Bazaar.
DAY 26: Trek to Lukla.
DAY 27: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu.
DAY 28: Trip ends, depart Kathmandu.

Ama Dablam 2012 Lydia Bradey

Climbing Ama Dablam - Lydia Bradley

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Ama Dablam Expedition

Cost, Dates and Details

Max Ratio - 3:1

Cost - $19,500

Dates

October 15 - November 11, 2025
October 14 - November 10th, 2026

Prerequisites

Ama Dablam is not a climb for novice mountaineers. It requires climbers to be comfortable ascending and descending steep terrain on fixed ropes. This is not a mountain to visit and then discover that you are not comfortable with exposure. We suggest that you gain experience and the required skills for travel on exposed technical ground before joining this expedition.

Fitness - The need for exceptional physical fitness cannot be over-emphasised. A regular, strenuous programme must be followed for many months to achieve the level of fitness required. We suggest a program tailored to mountaineering.

Technical Experience - Climbers need to be comfortable using ropes, ice axe, crampons and jumars, and be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice, carrying a big pack. You should be comfortable climbing alpine rock at at least 5.7 (yds).

Altitude - Climbers should have prior experience climbing at altitudes of around 6,000m/19,000ft.