Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition
This program provides the best possible introduction to Himalayan climbing - we ascend three beautiful 20,000-foot (6000+ meter) peaks in a relatively short time and in one of the most spectacular settings in the world. Join this trip for great trekking, a rewarding cultural experience with the Sherpa people, and superb climbing o Lobuche East (6119m), Pokalde Peak (5806m), and Island Peak (6189m).
After thorough acclimatization, climbers enjoy the steeper ground on Lobuche East. AAI Collection
The Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition is comprised of moderately technical climbing, do-able for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. We'll help you develop and advance your alpine climbing skills as we make this fantastic journey through five different valleys in a rewarding month of high Himalayan climbing.
This program is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at a reasonable price. Ultimately, our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations, and experiences available. With the leadership and company of our most affable and experienced Western guides, working collaboratively with our excellent Sherpa colleagues, we promise you an experience of a lifetime! This expedition is a joint AAI/Adventure Consultants undertaking that draws on the knowledge and experience of both guide services.
Three Peaks of Nepal Expedition
Ascents and Itinerary
During the post-monsoon season of 2014, the American Alpine Institute and Adventure Consultants will operate an expedition to climb three of Nepal’s most popular trekking Peaks; Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft), Pokalde Peak (5,806 m /19,049ft), and Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft).
This journey has many visual highlights with stunning views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks of Everest, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam and many, many more. The first of our climbs is Lobuche East (6,119m/20,075ft), an ideal location to undertake some technical training prior to the ascent which involves long snow/ice slopes of moderate angle. The climbing is protected by fixed rope that our guide and Sherpa team will fix ahead of the ascent. The High Camp is dramatic with exceptional views towards Cholatse, Taweche and Ama Dablam, especially at sunset when the peaks turn pink as the sun sets into Tibet. We climb to the far eastern summit on the summit ridge, a subsidiary of the high peak.
Energised from the ascent of Lobuche East, we turn next to Pokalde. A scenic hike takes the team over the spectacular Kongma La to Pokalde’s High Camp near some alpine lakes, high on the pass and one of the most picturesque locations in the entire Himalaya. Directly across the valley lies Ama Dablam, the jewel of the Khumbu Valley and one of the wonders of Nepal. The climb to the top of Pokalde from this camp is not so far as for Lobuche East, but on cresting the 5,806m/19,049ft summit you are blessed with eye-boggling panoramic views around the upper reaches of the Khumbu and Imja Khola Valley systems.
Island Peak, the highest of the Three Peaks at 6189m/20,305ft, is referred to by the local Sherpa people as Imja Tse—an ‘Island in a Glacial Sea’. An ideal mountain on which to finish the trilogy, Island Peak crosses more technical terrain than the previous two climbs and involves slightly more exposure, including the use of ladders on the glaciated lower sections of the climb and fixed ropes on the upper snow and ice sloped sections. It is an exciting and popular peak, with views from the summit towards Ama Dablam and the south wall of Nuptse/Lhotse that are awe-inspiring.
Each of these are very doable climbs for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure.
This twenty six day expedition commences when you arrive into Kathmandu, Nepal on the 10th of November. We will spend the next day sorting equipment and holding a team briefing about the journey ahead and make our final preparations. On day three, we fly to Lukla at the gateway of the Khumbu valley.
The expedition will stay at Sherpa lodges whilst we are trekking in the valleys on the way to each of the climbing objectives. On each of the peaks we will establish our Base Camp, where our talented kitchen crew will cater for us.
Approaching Island Peak on its lower glacier. Suze Kelly
On our trek up the famous Khumbu valley we will visit monasteries and small villages on the same route that Everest climbers have taken for over 50 years.
Our trek follows the trail to Everest Base Camp as far as the village of Pheriche, high in the barren alpine pastures of the upper Khumbu. From here we make our way onto the slopes of our first objective, Lobuche East, where we establish the first of our Base Camps. It is here that we spend some valuable time acclimatising and preparing for our first ascent with a training day of skills instruction and training, including the use of fixed ropes. In true expedition style we then move up to our High Camp, which lies on a small expanse of grass and rock above a deep blue lake. Then it’s early to bed for an alpine start the following morning.
Our early start, around 2:30am, sees us climbing the South East Ridge, which is a mixture of snow and ice. Where necessary, we fix ropes along the route and steady climbing will bring us to the far eastern summit. From the top, we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse, Pumori, Gyachung Kang and Cho Oyu. Then it’s time for our descent, all the way back to our Base Camp to celebrate our first ascent!
After the ascent of Lobuche East, we spend a day resting and preparing for our trek across the spectacular Kongma La to Pokalde High Camp,
located near the top of the pass. We watch the sun dip below the horizon and feel the allure of a down jacket and warm sleeping bag! In the morning we will pack up and head off to climb Pokalde just on sunrise. From Pokalde’s summit we are offered a bird’s eye view of our final objective Island Peak which sits at the head of the Imja Tse Valley. We make our way down to the small alpine village of Chhukung for a day of rest and some further skills training in preparation of the ladder crossings ahead. We then cross the glacier via a trail to Island Peak Base Camp, where we establish camp and head to bed early in anticipation of another early alpine start.
The climb of Island Peak involves some scrambling up rocky terrain to reach low angled glaciers that we walk up until the angle increases and we encounter 40-degree slopes on fixed ropes as well as some ladder crossings. After a time, we reach the exposed summit ridge and enjoy the security of the ropes all the way to the summit where we enjoy spectacular views of the north side of Ama Dablam, the sweeping flanks of Nuptse and the world’s fourth highest peak, Lhotse.
On the spectacular summit ridge of Island Peak.
From here it’s a descent back to Chhukung and Pangboche, with the option to visit nearby Tengboche, with its famous bakery and monastery, before returning to familiar territory of the trail back down the valley towards Lukla. The thicker oxygen-enriched air makes for easy travel with time to stop to enjoy the views or chat to the locals, and there’s also the opportunity to enjoy Namche Bazaar and perhaps even shop around for some of the thousands of items on display, such as the Tibetan rugs, jewellery and gemstones. The next day it’s onwards to Lukla for our final night in the Khumbu, before the flight back to Kathmandu.
On the approach trek just before Dingbouche, with Chukung and Island Peak in the distance.
This expedition is designed to offer you the best of Nepal at the most reasonable price. Our many years of Himalayan experience allows us to introduce you to the best food, accommodations, destinations and experiences that are available. It’s the small details that make all the difference, and this is where we excel. We provide the most affable and experienced western guides working in conjunction with our excellent Sherpa friends, to promise you an experience of a lifetime!