Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership Part 1

In this first 12-day program, we help you develop a very complete set of alpine climbing skills for rock, snow, and ice, from the basics on up, and as we progress through each set of skills, we will provide you with a lot of enjoyable practice climbing so you can master each technique. You will learn route finding and hazard assessment skills as well as self-rescue. Through the course you will make a series of classic alpine ascents on rock routes and on major glaciers, and you and your fellow team members will lead the final climb as you apply all the climbing and leadership skills learned during the program.

We place as much emphasis on good mountain judgment as we do on the development of technical skills, and throughout this course we’ll be helping you observe and analyze climbing routes, terrain features, and hazards so that by the end of the program you will have developed the ability to lead a small team safely through a rugged and complex environment and rope teams on basic and intermediate alpine routes. The climbs we make typically include four or five of the following: Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan, Glacier Peak, Cutthroat Peak, South Early Winter Spire, Liberty Bell, and Silver Star. Join this course for excellent skills development, diverse and beautiful alpine climbing experience, and preparation for leading your own alpine climbing teams.

Students Will Learn:

• Selection & use of personal equipment as well as ropes, knots, & harnesses
• Design concepts, selection, & use of technical equipment for rock, snow, & ice climbing
• The uses of map, compass, altimeter, and GPS
• Principles of glacier travel & route finding
• Belaying techniques on rock, snow, & ice
• The concept and application of the self-belay
• Self-arrest from all positions
• Free climbing technique on rock, snow, & ice
• French, German, and American cramponing techniques
• Interrelationship, choice between, & application of all principal ice axe positions
• Rappelling & prusiking
• Glissading for speed & ease of descent
• Evaluation & prediction of mountain weather patterns
• Introduction to the assessment of natural hazards
• Individual & team crevasse rescue techniques
• Technical & personal functions of individuals in the rope team: role and responsibility
• Problem solving: gathering appropriate data & assessment techniques
• Evolving leadership roles: individual leadership vs. collective decision making
• An introduction to alpine ecology
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing skills

Prerequisites

• Good physical fitness, including
• Ability to carry a 45 – 55 lb backpack for multiple hours
• Stamina to hike for over 8 hours (including breaks, and with lesser pack weight)
• Ability to cook for yourself on a backpacking stove
• Overnight backpacking experience

​If you lack overnight backpacking experience, you can add a 2-day Backpacking and Wilderness Skills course at a discounted price.

Inclusions and Exclusions

Inclusions: Included in the course cost are group technical climbing equipment like ropes and pickets, transportation to the climbing areas from AAI headquarters, all permits and camping fees, and the guide fee.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost are all personal clothing and climbing gear, rentals, gratuities to the guide, meals, or travel insurance.

Take Your Skills to the Next Level

After completing AMTL Part 1, you may choose to continue with Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership 2 (AMTL 2) in order to rapidly develop well-rounded technical leadership skills. You also have the choice of joining one of our shorter follow-up programs, such as our 4-day Learn to Lead, 6-day Alpine Ice, 6-day Denali Prep, or others. We can advise you on your best options in light of your interests and future climbing goals.  If you want to complete the entire Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership series, you can take the courses whenever they fit into your schedule.  If you complete all 4 parts, you will receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.

There is a $200 discount if you take AMTL 1 and AMTL 2 within 14 months of each other.

Navigate with Confidence

While this program includes backcountry navigation, time on the mountain is limited. Many climbers choose to expand their skills by adding the full-day Backcountry Navigation Comprehensive program. This add-on gives you extra practice and confidence with route-finding, map reading, and glacier navigation, ensuring you’re fully prepared to move independently and efficiently in the backcountry.

When to Climb in the Cascades

Every month in the Cascades tells a different story. Early, mid, and late summer each bring unique conditions that affect your climb. See how the season you choose can shape your route, snow conditions, and overall experience in this article.