AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course and Exam

Pre-Requisites for AAI’s SPI Course

1. You are at least 18 years old.
2. You are a member of the American Mountain Guides Association at the time of the course. (If you’re not a member already, you can sign up at amga.com.)
3. You have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
4. You have at least 12 months of prior climbing experience.
5. You are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience, and you have lead a minimum of 15 traditional pitches.
6. You are able to comfortably set-up climbs, to belay, to rappel without guidance and can demonstrate familiarity with anchoring principals, natural anchors and artificial anchors (wires, hexes, passive and active cams). These skills may be assessed at the start of your course.
7. You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on top-rope.

SPI candidates practice lowering on a Munter Hitch during a course in Leavenworth. Jason Martin

The following is a brief overview of the main points that will be discussed and practiced throughout the three-day course. Weather or other environmental factors may change the order of the curriculum.

Day One:

• Introduction to the AMGA and the Rock Certification Process.
• Carpool to the Instructional location
• Discussion of climbing equipment and its importance to the climbing instructor.
• Review of instructor knots and hitches
• Instructor and student belay techniques
• Management of the climbing site
• Instructional anchors and rock protection
• Teaching techniques and risk management for the climbing instructor

Day Two:

• Professionalism in climbing instruction
• Development of practical skills for top-managed sites
• Climbing site organization and group management
• Discussion and practice of lowering techniques
• Assistance skills for a top-managed site.

Day Three:

• Development of practical skills required for a bottom-managed site
• Review of assistance skills required for a bottom-managed site
• Techniques to teach climbing movement
• Review Sessions
• Individual and group debriefs

Meeting time and place:

Red Rock Canyon, Nevada: Participants will meet at the covered picnic area located in the Red Springs Picnic Area in Calico Basin in Red Rock Canyon at 7:30 in the morning on the first day of the course or exam. The road to Red Springs may be found just a short distance west of the campground, between the campground road and the entrance to the Red Rock Scenic Drive. Take the first right-hand turn past Moenkopi Road and drive a short distance through a semi-residential area to the Red Springs Parking Lot.

Leavenworth, Washington: On the first day of the course, participants will meet their instructor at the Forest Lands Parking Lot behind Barney’s Rubble on the Icicle River Road. Please arrive here at 7:30 in the morning on the first dday of the course or exam.

Mt. Erie, Washington: On the first day of an exam we will meet at the Mt. Erie Summit Parking Lot at 7:30am.

For all other course locations, please contact the AAI office for meeting times and places.

A climber rappels in Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area. Jason Martin.

Equipment:

Unlike other AAI courses, the SPI program requires that participants bring their own equipment. Download a pdf of our SPI Equipment List under ‘Course Downloads’ to the right.

Required Text:

• The AMGA Single Pitch Manual by Bob Gaines and Jason D. Martin

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor program was formerly known as the Top-Rope Site Manager (TRSM) Program. American Mountain Guides Association program coordinators worked on the design and the implementation of the SPI program over a period of years. They replaced the TRSM curriculum with this new program for two reasons. First, the new curriculum was designed to raise the standard of skill in the single pitch instructor. And second, they wanted this American program to correspond more closely with the similar programs of other member countries in the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations.

Exam:

It is a common practice for students to take their exam at a later date, following completion of their course. This allows additional time to practice new skills, and to build confidence for the exam. Please feel free to register for any exam date of your choice.

SPI courses and exams may be run with private entities at your leisure. Please contact our office for more information at 1-800-424-2249 or by emailing info@alpineinstitute.com.

​For more information about the American Mountain Guides Association and AMGA education and certification standards, visit www.amga.com.

Two-Day Exam and SPI Assessment Candidate Prerequisites:

SPI Candidates practice counter-balance rappelling in Joshua Tree. Jason Martin.

You meet the SPI Certification Exam pre-requisites
if:

1. You have successfully completed the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course or the AMGA Toprope Site Manager Course.
2. You have trad lead climbed a minimum of 40 graded rock routes. A large number of these should have been 5.6 or harder.
3. You are capable of comfortably leading traditional routes at the 5.6 grade in a variety of settings (i.e. crack, face, slab, etc.). You will be asked to demonstrate your leading ability throughout the assessment.
4. You are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on toprope.

To gain SPI Certification, candidates must:

1. Successfully pass the SPI Assessment
2. Hold current AMGA Membership at the Associate Level or higher
3. Hold appropriate current First Aid Certification for the area where you desire to work. (Please see the SPI Program Manual for more information on first aid requirements.)

​Many students let their AMGA membership lapse. You must be a current member of the AMGA for your exam results to be valid.

​SPI Certification is only valid with current AMGA Membership and valid current First Aid Certification. If you let either of these lapse, your SPI Certification is invalid until you rectify this.

SPI Certification lasts for three-years from the date of assessment. There are two options for renewal:

• Certified Single Pitch Instructors can take the two-day SPI Assessment to renew their certification.
• Certified Single Pitch Instructors who successfully complete one of the following AMGA Courses: Rock Instructor Course, Advanced Rock Guides Course, Alpine Guides Course, or an Advanced Alpine Guides Course is granted SPI certification for three years from the course end date. After completing a course, please contact the AMGA so they can update your records.

An SPI Candidate manages a transition in Joshua Tree National Park. Jason Martin.