Trip Report: Warbonnet Peak

Ever since the first time I went to the Wind River Range with Drew back in the 80s, I have been inspired and compelled by the Wind’s seemingly endless supply of alpine beauty. After doing several trips to the area near the Cirque of the Towers, Warbonnnet Peak, guarding Jackass Pass on the way to the such classics as Pingora and Wolf’s Head, always glimmered at me like a throbbing obelisk of stunning splitter. For some reason, I thought the Wind River Range was on the way on my cross-country jaunt from Park City, UT, to Seattle, WA. Just for future reference: it is not. As for the climb, it was put up in the 80s (I think) by badasses Charlie Fowler and Jeff Lowe. This route is characterized by nearly immaculate, steep-to-overhanging, splitter. 8/9 pitches were at least 45 meters long… strenuous enduro-fest style pitches typically comprised of a perfect crack running the same size for most of the pitch’s length. Think Indian Creek in granite 700 feet off the deck. Most of the gear was large. An ideal rack for this climb would be singles up to #1, 3x #2, 4x #3, 4x #4. I know that sounds unreasonable, but when you’re climbing rattly hands and fists at .11 on a 180 foot pitch, it makes sense real quick. I often found myself afraid to go higher because I had used my two #4s on the first 80 feet and there was still 80 more feet of off-width treachery above. The crux pitch, like all the other pitches, was long, sustained, and slightly overhanging. I think I lost about 1/3 of my bodyweight on it.

Warbonnnet, from near Big Sandy Lake. The line follows right center of the main face, following the ramp and white vein to the giant chockstone.

Liz leading the 3rd pitch. A sustained and long .10+ corner. Very high-quality hands.

The scramble begins at the end of this (9th) pitch and nearly 800 feet of climbing. I was ready for a pastrami sandwich, foot massage, and a diet coke at this point.

–Liz Daley, Instructor and Guide