The Canadian Guide Mike Barter is a funny dude. In this video, he talks about a tying the bowline…while dressed as a cowboy.
Perhaps the best line of this video is when he says that a bowline is “strong enough to pull a snowboarder off his sister.”
There are a couple of things that I’d like to add to this excellent video.
In addition to what Mike demonstrated, we teach the double-bowline in the curriculum for the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. This knot is quite a bit stronger than a single bowline and not as easily untied due to cyclic loading.
Mike repeatedly states that he doesn’t want to see people tie-in with a bowline. You may be aware that there is a trend in the sport climbing community wherein people tie in with a double-bowline. There are two big problems with this. The first is that many climbers don’t use this technique to tie-in and will not be able to check their partner adequately. And second, if there is a problem in the knot, it is far more likely to fail than a figure-eight follow-through.
There have been a few high-profile accidents with people using a double-bowline for their tie-in. These accidents could have been avoided if the individuals simply used the industry standard figure-eight and checked each other out…
The bowline is a very important knot. And as Mike said in the video, it could even be considered a king of the knots. But when all is said and done, it really should only be used for anchoring to boulders and trees.
–Jason D. Martin