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Rock Climbing, Alpine Climbing

The Art of Downclimbing

American Alpine Institute
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Scrambling is the gray area between hiking and technical climbing — that adventurous middle ground where you’re using your hands for balance and upward movement, but you generally don’t have any technical gear.

There is a point where scrambling becomes something more. There is a point where scrambling becomes something more like free soloing. This is especially true when a scramble includes exposure. This is especially true when a mistake could cost you your life.

It is within this context that we have to discuss how important it is not just to be able to climb a route, but also to be able to reverse the moves on the route. If you don’t have a rope, this may be the only way to get down.

Reversibility is the art of downclimbing with control and composure. It’s the quiet confidence that allows a climber to stop mid-route, assess the situation, and retreat safely if something doesn’t feel right. In other words, it’s what separates the calculated soloist from the reckless one.

There is another part to this perspective though.

Sometimes you have to look at the terrain, look at the fact that you don’t have a rope, and make the hard decision to descend before getting in over your head. You don’t want to find out that you are unable to reverse moves after committing to them.

If you find yourself in a situation where you can’t safely descend, it’s often better to call for help than to just commit. Mountain rescue would much rather assist you in getting down than deal with a person who’s fallen…

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