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Team Crevasse Rescue Technique

American Alpine Institute
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The fastest and most efficient crevasse rescue for many teams is the 2:1 Drop C system.

The rescue begins with the fallen climber’s rope team holding the fall in self-arrest. Once the situation is stable, a second rope team carefully approaches the crevasse, taking care not to overload or collapse the snow at the lip.

The lead rescuer moves to the edge, creates a secure snow seat by digging in their heels, and effectively becomes the anchor for the rescue. The remaining members of the second team then approach while protected by a prusik attached to the rope. This keeps each rescuer protected from a fall while also creating a loop of rope between the leader and the rest of the team.

If the fallen climber is conscious and able to assist, they clip the rope loop to their harness with a locking carabiner. This connection creates the hauling system. If the climber is unable to make this attachment, a different rescue technique will be required.

The lead rescuer then protects the rope from abrasion by placing an ice axe or other suitable padding beneath it at the lip of the crevasse.

On command, both rope teams begin pulling simultaneously. The second team pulls on the rope loop while the victim’s original rope team continues hauling on the main rope. Together, these actions create a 2:1 mechanical advantage, allowing the teams to extract the climber quickly and efficiently with minimal equipment.

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