Rappelling is always tricky. It is the most dangerous thing that we do in the mountains and there are a lot of things to worry about. Are the ropes touching the ground? Are you clipped in properly? How many rappels do you have to do? Should you knot the ends of the rope or not? Are there people coming up below? And will the rope hang up when you throw it?
This particular article is about the last two issues. Are there people climbing up from below and will the rope get hung up when it’s thrown? If there are people below or the rope looks like its going to get hung up, then the best means of descent might be with saddlebags.
Saddlebags are essentially a means by which you can stack your rope in a sling and clip it to yourself so that it will easily feed out as you rappel down.
- Center your rope on the rappel anchor.
- Coil the rope from the ends to the middle.
- Clip a single shoulder-length sling to your harness.
- Center the rope on the sling.
- Clip the other end of the sling to the carabiner already clipped to your harness.
- Put an extension on your rappel device.
- Add a back-up friction hitch to the double-ropes going through your device. This can be clipped directly to your belay loop if you are using an extension or to your leg-loop if you are rappelling directly off your harness.
- Rappel.
- If the rope gets tangled, unclip the carabiner that isn’t clipped to your harness and allow the rope to fall down the cliff-face.
I regularly use this technique to deal with climbers below, low-angled terrain or wind. It is an easy and effective way to keep the rope from knocking someone down or becoming a mess…but like everything else, it takes practice to get it to work properly…
–Jason D. Martin