Bolivia’s
Pequeno Alpamayo is one of the prettiest little peaks in the
Cordillera Real. The mountain looks a great deal like Peru’s Alpamayo,
but doesn’t have the objective danger or the size of it’s namesake.
Instead, Pequeno Alpamayo is a striking and accessible peak that can
easily be done in a day from the Condoriri basecamp.
There are
two major routes on the mountain. The moderate Southwest Ridge and the
more difficult Southeast Face. Both lines require four to five pitches
of climbing. The Southwest Ridge is primarily forty to fifty degree snow
and ice climbing, while the Southeast Face is a bit steeper with
terrain that ranges from sixty to seventy degrees.
In 1990, an
AAI team established the steeper of the two routes. During the 80s and
90s American Alpine Institute expeditions were responsible for dozens of
new routes in the Cordillera Real.
The route selection on
Pequeno Alpamayo often takes place based on how one feels. The
mountain’s summit rises to 17,618 feet above sea level, so the oxygen is
a bit thin. Many who might see the Southeast Face as a quick jog will
find it to be somewhat more difficult due to the altitude. Climbing
steep terrain at 17,000 feet often requires one to take a bit more time
on each pitch. This is primarily because climbers tend to take a few
breaths between each tool placement.
Both routes are accessed by
traversing an adjacent peak. Tarija is 16,601 feet and is often
considered an objective in and of itself. This approach to the mountain
provides for an excellent view of the potential routes. Many of the
striking photos of Pequeno Alpamayo have been taken from Tarija’s
summit.
Following is a photo essay from a series of ascents of
Pequeno Alpamayo:
–Jason
D. Martin