begins in the left facing corner and continues up the right side of the lower pillar through
corners and roofs. (A. Stephen)
The first pitch is a delicate and thin 5.9 left-facing corner The crack takes good small gear, and there are two bolts protecting some thin face climbing and stemming where the crack pinches down. This brings you to a nice handcrack with plentiful face-holds leading to a good two bolt anchor on the left side of a pillar.
The next pitch is the crux- It is called 5.10d in the guidebook, but I felt it checked in a little easier than that- maybe 5.10b. After traversing to the left side of the pillar, you climb an amazing corner that starts as perfect hand jams. After a few body lengths, the crack thins to green camalots and the corner turns into a slot that you can get great knee-bars in.
climbing of the 2nd pitch. (A. Stephen)
The fun isn’t over yet though! Next, a 5.8 pitch heads up a crack and traverses to the base of another pillar.
The next pitch checks in around 5.10a and traverses out yet another awesome roof on a slightly wider crack (#3 camalot) with better feet.
Two more 5.9 pitches continue up through cracks, neither of which weren’t totally memorable, but fun nonetheless. We rappelled the route with two ropes.
(M. Faville)
If you are looking for a route to do when the other routes on Ginger Buttress are busy or a super fun route that is off the beaten path, Cayenne Corners should be on your list! Here is a link to some more specific beta- http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cayenne-corners/106413414.
–Andy Stephen, Instructor and Guide