In 2022, a 22-year-old woman took a significant fall on the Snake Dike (5.7, III) in Yosemite National Park. The accident was the result of being off-route and run out.
Following this accident, there have been several articles about whether or not the Snake Dike should have additional bolts installed. One of the living first ascentionists agrees. But things aren’t always that easy.
In a recent article, three top climbers argue about whether bolts should be added or not. One of the climbers, Peter Croft, argues that at the very least, a few more should be added to ensure people go the right way. That’s essentially where we stand…but we’re just mountain educators and guides and have little influence over the greater community outside editorializing like this.
Unfortunately, it’s unlikely anything will change on the Snake Dike in the near future…
Why Can’t We Just Add Bolts?
There are climbs all over the world that don’t resemble what modern gym climbers encounter indoors. The indoor experience is about as safe as it can be for climbing.
In an outdoor setting, the first ascentionst builds a route in a way that reflects both their philosophy and their risk tolerance. There is artistry to developing a climb. And not every climb is for every person. However, sometimes a climber feels that a climb simply isn’t well protected enough. And sometimes that person wants to change the climb by adding bolts.
If you want to add bolts to an old climb, the first step is to get permission from the first ascentionists. If they feel like it’s okay to add bolts, then it’s generally okay. However, if they do not agree with additional bolts, the ethic is to leave the route alone.
It gets much trickier with climbs that are classic. Additional bolts are almost never welcomed on climbs that are quite old. And indeed, the addition of new bolts may even lead to bolts being “chopped.” In other words, someone comes along and takes the bolts out…
If you have an interest in adding bolts to a climb, first approach the first ascenionist. Second, if they’re no longer alive, then approach the local climbing community. If they’re good to go, then you can add bolts. But, if there’s no consensus, the best thing to do is to leave it alone…