Programs in the United States - Alaska

The Acknowleged Alaska Range Specialists since 1980

American Alpine Institute has been guiding in Alaska since 1980. We operate throughout Denali National Park and Preserve, both on Denali proper (formerly known as Mt. McKinley) and in the Ruth Gorge, Little Switzerland, and every other major climbing destination. In addition, we operate in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. In 2002, when concessioners on Denali re-applied for their permits, the Institute was ranked the #1 applicant by the National Park Service.

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  • Denali Summit Ridge
  • DeHavilland Otter unloading
  • Mt. McKinley summit ridge
  • Denali Summit Team 6 2015
  • Descending Washburn's Thumb
  • Above Denali Pass
  • Lower Kahiltna Glacier
  • Climbers reaching Denali Pass
  • Climber on the Edge of the World
  • Looking at the West Buttress from 17 Camp
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of Denali
  • AAI Expedition Team
  • Summit Joy
  • Mt. Foraker from Denali 17k Camp
  • Pulling sleds on Denali
  • Denali Base Camp
  • On the Descent
  • Denali Route Map
  • Climbers Ascending the Summit Ridge on Denali
  • From the summit of Denali (20,310ft)
  • Climbers ascending towards the summit of Denali
  • Denali from the K2 plane ride

  Denali Expedition - West Buttress

  We've been climbing Denali (formerly known as Mt. McKinley) since 1980 and have an outstanding record of safety and summit success. This guided expedition to climb the West Buttress, following an ingenious and beautiful route pioneered by Bradford Washburn in 1951, is one of the great mountaineering experiences.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May - June
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:2024 - $11,995 (Book for 2025 at this rate until August 1, 2024)

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  • Climbing the West Rib
  • Denali Route Photo-diagram
  • Towards the bergschrund camp
  • Camp at the start of the West Rib
  • High on Denali's West Rib
  • Fixed lines low on the West Rib
  • Incredible views mid-route on the West Rib

  Denali Expedition - West Rib

  Denali's West Rib is a beautiful, three-mile long ridge that rises dramatically from an 11,000-foot base. In its 9000-foot vertical rise it offers a full range of snow and ice climbing challenges, from ascents and traverses of narrowly winding crests, to sustained technical challenge on 55-degree ice faces. In addition to its variety, the route's dramatic outline and nearly direct rise to the mountain's summit add to its appeal.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:Starts at $11,900

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  • Mixed climbing
  • Mixed blocky terrain
  • Leaving the Cassin Ledge
  • Camp in Second Rock Band
  • Barefoot-at-bivy
  • Ice couloir
  • In camp
  • S. Face of Denali with the Cassin Ridge in center
  • 11,000' Camp on the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier

  Denali Expedition - Cassin Ridge

  First climbed in 1961, the Cassin Ridge rises 8000 feet from the very bottom of Denali's South face to within a few yards of the true summit of the mountain. Steep snow, ice, and mixed climbing make this one of the most sought-after big mountain alpine climbs in the world.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:May - July
  • Length:21 days
  • Cost:Call for pricing

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  • AAI climbers in the Ruth Gorge
  • Near the summit of the Moose's Tooth
  • AAI Climbers practicing crevasse rescue
  • Ice Climbing with Mount Dan Beard in Background
  • Summit of the Moose's Tooth
  • Moose's Tooth from Ruth Gorge
  • AAI climber practicing crevasse rescue
  • AAI climber building snow anchors on the Ruth Glacier
  • AAI climbers performing crevasse rescue
  • Climbers breaking on the Ruth Glacier
  • An AAI rope team navigating the Ruth Glacier

  Alaska Range Mountaineering

  An adventurous introduction to big mountain expeditions, you'll learn the climbing skills and techniques used in modern alpine mountaineering and earn the opportunity to climb several beautiful peaks in the heart of the Alaska Range. Prepare for Denali or other major climbs around the world.

  • Location:Alaska Range, Alaska
  • Season:April - June
  • Length:10 days
  • Cost:Starting at $7500 (4:1)

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  • Climber and new objective
  • An unnamed Peak on the Bagley Icefield
  • Mount St. Elias towers above guide Ben Traxler.
  • Meal time in the St. Elias Range
  • Matanuska Glacier snout
  • Climbers on the summit ridge of an unnammed peak
  • Basecamp deep in the St. Elias Range
  • Interpreting the map
  • Sunset over the remote St. Elias Range

  Saint Elias Range Skills Expedition

  Introducing Alaska and expedition climbing, participants with previous mountaineering experience will learn the skills to be a rope team leader on moderate glacial terrain while intermediate climbers review snow and ice techniques, protective systems, and crevasse rescue. All participants attempt ascents at a beginner or intermediate level in the Wrangell-Saint Elias Mountains.

  • Location:St. Elias Range, Alaska
  • Season:May - June
  • Length:Varies
  • Cost:Please contact AAI for pricing

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  • Returning to Camp
  • Glacier Travel
  • Excited Group
  • Italy's Boot in Little Switzerland
  • Impressive Peak

  Little Switzerland/Pika Glacier Expedition

  Little Switzerland is the name given to a series of dramatic granite spires jutting up out of the Pika Glacier like broken teeth. Found just 35 miles south of Denali, this sub-range provides ample opportunities for climbers to ascend dramatic towers in single pushes from a base camp on the glacier. Little Swiss is an alpine playground in a grand setting.

  • Location:Alaska Range
  • Season:June - July
  • Length:12 Days
  • Cost:Call or email for pricing

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  • Alpine Climbing in the Alaska Rnage
  • Skiing toward Peak 11,300
  • Central Alaska Range
  • Moose's Tooth
  • Explorer's Peak Summit
  • Kahiltna Dome
  • Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300
  • Mount Crosson from Denali Base Camp
  • Radio Control Tower
  • Mount Barrill
  • Southwest Ridge of Mount Frances
  • Mount Foraker from Denali Base Camp
  • Ham and Eggs couloir on the Moose's Tooth
  • The West Face of Mount Huntington
  • The North Face of Mount Hunter
  • The Mini-Moonflower and Kahiltna Queen
  • Motorcycle Hill, West Buttress route on Denali

  Guided Alpine Climbing in the Alaska Range

  The Central Alaska Range is made up of the peaks and valleys that surround Denali, Mount Hunter, and Mount Foraker. In the deep glacial gorges that drop from Denali's flanks sit some of the most impressive and awe-inspiring mountains in world.

  • Location:Central Alaska Range
  • Season:May - July
  • Length:8-22 Days
  • Cost:Ratio Pricing