Ama Dablam was first climbed in 1961 by a New Zealand and American team and we follow their original route, the southwest ridge. A seven-day trek into Lobuche Base Camp (15,750/4,800m) through the Khumbu Valley provides exceptional views of Ama Dablam, while we experience the culture and hospitality of the Sherpa people.
Once established in Base Camp, we review climbing skills before moving to Lobuche High Camp (17,720/5,400m) and attempting a climb of Lobuche East. This warm-up climb provides essential acclimatization as well as a chance to practice the skills required to climb Ama Dablam.
Before long, we turn towards our main objective and trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp. We move loads to Camp 1 (19,052/5,807m) via a long slope to the beginning of the Southwest Ridge proper. This is where the technical climbing begins as the route follows the spine of the rock ridge, bringing us up directly to Camp 2 (20,594/6,277m). The exposed nature of the route makes for exciting climbing, yet it is not as steep as one would imagine. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route.
On summit day, the route weaves between the ice cliffs and then follows a snow arête directly onto the 22,402ft/6,828m summit.
Alex Geary Liza climbing below camp 3 – AAI Collection.
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