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Alpine Climbing, Mountaineering and Snow Climbing

No Axe Self-Arrest

American Alpine Institute
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It is common for people to think that it is impossible to self-arrest without an ice axe. This could not be further from the truth. The following video discusses the three kinds of “no axe” arrest and shows how to do one of the three techniques.

Technique #1: Do a Push-Up

The first technique is the best. You need to get into a push-up position and get your hips up off the ground. Dig your toes in. This should stop you quickly.

Technique #2: Gather Snow

In each of these techniques, the core is to get your hips up off the snow. In this iteration, instead of doing a push-up, you will turn your arms into a shovel, fingers together. You are essentially trying to gather snow as you slide down the hill.

Technique #3: Use Your Elbows

In this technique, you will jam both elbows into the ground as you get your hips up off the snow and drive your toes in. Your elbows then become your “ice axe,” stopping you quickly.

Every mountain traveler should know how to self-arrest without an ice axe. If you haven’t done it before, practice these three techniques and see which one you like best!

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