Itinerary
Glacier Peak Skills and Climb Itinerary
Please keep in mind that this is a standard, yet loose, itinerary. It is subject to change depending on conditions, weather, group dynamics, pace, and summit strategies.
Program Details
Our Glacier Peak Skills and Climb program combines essential mountaineering instruction with an unforgettable summit attempt on one of Washington’s most iconic volcanoes. Students develop foundational glacier travel skills, rope techniques, crevasse rescue, crampon and ice axe use, and mountain navigation while putting those skills into practice on a guided ascent of Glacier Peak. This program is a great opportunity to build mountaineering experience, gain confidence on glaciated terrain, and work toward a challenging Cascade summit.
Itinerary
Day 1
Rendezvous at the American Alpine Institute Equipment Shop and Travel to Trailhead
On the first day of the program, the team will meet at 7am at the AAI headquarters in Bellingham, Washington for a comprehensive equipment check. Following that, the team will drive to North Fork Sauk Trail Trailhead (2,100′), approximately two hours away.
The team will then hike the North Fork Sauk Trail (5.2 miles) to the Mackinaw Shelter (3000′). Once we are there, we will cover some basic knots and hitches and discuss the use of the climbing harnesses and ropes.
Day 2
Move to Basecamp
On the second day of the program, the team will get up early and hike 8.2 miles to Glacier Gap Camp at 7,300 feet. This will be a big day with 4,300 feet of elevation gain. The entire focus of this second day will be to get to the Glacier Gap Camp.
Day 3
Snow School
On the third day of the program, we will focus on snow school skills. This includes effective movement over snow, the 9 principle ice axe positions, snow anchors, belay techniques, and roping up for glacier travel.
Day 4
Crevasse Rescue Systems
The primary focus of the fourth day of this program will be on crevasse rescue systems. The team will discuss mechanical advantage, and then build hauling systems. Crevasse rescue systems to be covered are the 3:1 and 6:1 direct hauls and the 2:1 team drop C rescue system.
Day 5
Summit Bid
On Day 5, the team will make a summit bid and then start back toward the trailhead. We will climb 3,200 feet over 2.8 miles to the summit (10,525′) and then return to the Glacier Gap Camp. From camp, we will travel approximately 4.5 miles and lose 1700 feet to camp at the White Pass Campground (5,800′).
Day 6
Hike Out and Return to Bellingham
On the final day of the program, we will hike 9 miles back out to the trailhead and then return to the AAI headquarters in Bellingham.