Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers

COVID-19 UPDATE:  AAI is open and operating with new policies and procedures for COVID-19. Click the following links to learn more about AAI's COVID-19 Operating Plans and cancellation policy.

Overview

  • Imagine a rock leader taking a fall and breaking an ankle. You want to lower him, but you don't have enough rope.
  • Imagine taking a family member out who has never climbed before. He gets half-way up a top-rope problem and freezes. He won't climb up or lower down.
  • Imagine your partner, whipping under a roof that you lead. He can't reach the wall and can't get back on the route. He's stuck.

 

AAI guides Andrew Yasso and Erin Smart are lowered together on a cow's tail. This technique allows a climber to lower two people at the same time.

AAI guides Andrew Yasso and Erin Smart are lowered together on a cow's tail. This technique allows a climber to lower two people at the same time. Jason Martin

Each of the preceding problems could happen to any climber, anytime, anywhere. If you are not prepared to deal with these issues, a minor epic could easily evolve into a full-on situation where somebody gets seriously hurt or dies. Self-rescue is an absolutely essential skill.

Our rescue courses address what you can do with the minimal gear that you normally carry in the mountains. In other words, we want climbers to be able to do most of the things that a Search and Rescue crew might do with a large amount of gear and helicopter support, with nothing more than a rack and a rope.

Rescue skills should be thought of as a spectrum. On one end of the spectrum is the climber who can't pull a move and needs his partner to rig a quick hauling system for assistance. On the other end of the spectrum is the seriously injured climber who needs to be lowered down tricky multi-pitch terrain with a lot of assistance. There is a tremendous amount of material in the entire spectrum of rock rescue and only a small amount of it can be addressed in a two-hour session.

Rock-rescue is a life long learning process. You never know when you will need to use this material and the more knowledge that you have, the better the outcome will be in any real rescue situation.

Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers

Curriculum

Students will demonstrate improvised rescue proficiency in a wide array of self-rescue and rock-rescue scenarios.

 

Curriculum Highlights

A climber works a high-end rescue scenario with multiple patients.

A climber works a high-end rescue scenario with multiple patients. Michael Powers

  • Self-Rescue Hauling - 2:1, 3:1, 5:1, 6:1
  • Pulley Systems
  • Load Transfers
  • Lowering Systems - with a munter-hitch, super-munter, tube-style device, and autoblocking device
  • Anchor Systems
  • Rope Climbing Techniques - with a friction-hitch system, with an autoblocking device, with an assisted breaking device
  • Belay Escapes - off an autoblocking device and off the body
  • Passing Knots
  • Multi-Pitch Descents with a Patient
  • Pick-Offs - patient pickoffs for self-rescue
  • Rappelling - classic rappel, extended rappel, tandem rappel, and counterbalance rappel techniques
  • Knots - figure-eight family, overhand, double-overhand-on-a-bite, bowline, double bowline, long-tail bowline, butterfly
  • Bends - double-fisherman's, overhand flat bend, water bend
  • Hitches - prusik, kliemheist, autoblock, clove, munter, and garda
  • Load Releasable Hitches - munter-mule

 

On two-day programs, the first day is spent on the ground, practicing all of the multi-pitch rescue techniques.  On the second day, we move into high-angle terrain and repeat the lessons of the previous day with live loads.

 

Prerequisites

Climbers who are interested in taking the Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers course should have multi-pitch climbing experience prior to enrollment. Private 1-2 day courses are available for climbers of all skill levels, regardless of experience.

Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers

Dates & Details

The Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers course was designed to be a dynamic course that can be taught almost anywhere. The value is not greater in one place over another. The curriculum is the same in each course location. 

 

Group Course Dates 

  • Nov 20 - 21, 2020 - Red Rock Canyon, NV - Filling!
  • Jan 7 - 8, 2021 - Red Rock Canyon, NV - Filling!
  • Mar 18 - 19, 2021 - Red Rock Canyon, NV
  • Apr 24 - 25, 2021 - Bellingham, WA
  • May 22 - 23, 2021 - Bellingham, WA
  • Jul 17 - 18, 2021 - Bellingham, WA
  • Sep 25 - 26, 2021 - Bellingham, WA

Dates available on a private basis. Call for details.  

*This course requires a minimum of two people in order to be confirmed for two days. 

 

Inclusions and Exclusions for Group Courses

Included with the tuition are instructors, group equipment, permit fees, and transportation to and from field program locations.

Excluded are front-country lodging, personal climbing equipment, transportation to the meeting place, food, trip insurance, camping equipment, and guide gratuities.

Private trips are subject to the rules and rates of the location where the program takes place.

 

Private Programming

The Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers course may be offered privately in all AAI program areas. Private rates are subject to the program area. Additionally, it may also be possible to offer the course outside of normal program areas. Please contact the AAI office for details.

Some who choose the private programming option prefer to complete one day of training, practice and then come back a month later to complete their second day of training. If an individual puts in a lot of practice time, this can be a very effective way of learning the material. However, if an individual is less inclined to practice, then a two-day program may provide a more effective way of learning.

 

Private Programming Location Options

  • Squamish, BC
  • Bellingham, WA
  • Mt. Erie, WA
  • Mazama, WA
  • Index, WA
  • Leavenworth, WA
  • Exit 38, WA
  • Frenchman Coulee, WA
  • Bishop, CA
  • Mammoth, CA
  • Lee Vining, CA
  • Joshua Tree National Park, CA
  • Red Rock Canyon, NV

Technical Self-Rescue for Climbers

Related Courses

  • Technical Rope Rescue Comprehensive

    Technical Rope Rescue Comprehensive

    the most complete rope rescue course offered in the United States. It is the only course available that addresses team-rescue, self-rescue, rock rescue and c...

  • Avalanche Training - AIARE 1

    Avalanche Training - AIARE 1

    Whether you ski, ride, or walk, take the AIARE Rec 1 program to gain essential planning and decision-making skills for backcountry winter travel.

  • Avalanche Training - AIARE 2

    Avalanche Training - AIARE 2

    Expand your knowledge and understanding of snow stability and snow stability factors in this AIARE Rec 2 course. It is ideal for snow safety and guiding prof...

  • AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course and Exam

    AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor Course and Exam

    Take this course and receive the American Mountain Guide Association certification of Single Pitch Instructor.

  • Technical Rope Rescue Level I - Operations

    Technical Rope Rescue Level I - Operations

    The American Alpine Institute Technical Rope Rescue Level I program is an NFPA compliant rope rescue course. Students will develop the skills to perform resc...

  • Technical Rope Rescue Level II - Technician

    Technical Rope Rescue Level II - Technician

    The American Alpine Institute Technical Rope Rescue Level II program is an NFPA compliant rope rescue course. Students will develop the skills to perform res...

Program Finder