Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

Overview

Nearing the summit of N. Peak.

Nearing the summit of N. Peak.
Justin Wood

The Sierra Nevada is a complex mountain range, and its variety of rock faces, rock ridges, and high summits make it an excellent training ground on which to acquire the skills of mountaineering. In this introductory course, we take advantage of all that the Sierra has to offer, practicing on a wide variety of terrain in order to create an excellent foundation for climbing skills that you can effectively and safely apply in a mountain environment.

This course covers technical skills while in the backcountry. Depending on season, the course focuses on snow, ice and rock. Later in the season, the Sierra's high-quality rock is our main focus.

We start the trip with a gear check and hike into a basin near a high and dramatic peak, often Mount Gilbert (13,106') or Mount Abbot (13,715') where we set-up camp and then begin to develop a series of alpine skills. On the second day of the course we learn alpine climbing skills for moderate rock, including rope-work and the use of an ice axe and crampons if the season allows it. On the third day, we make an ascent of an alpine peak, applying the skills garnered over the first two days. This is a challenging day, but the summit makes it all worth it. On the fourth day we debrief the techniques and information covered and return to the trailhead. Those who complete this course should have the foundation to be competent team members on moderate terrain. 

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

Curriculum

This program covers technical skills, Leave No Trace (LNT) ethics and procedures, hazard assessment, and the development of good mountain judgment. Because our goal is to make you qualified to climb moderate routes on high alpine peaks and because they can offer such varied conditions, we train in the skills for rock, snow, and ice-climbing. Starting in a comfortable practice area we demonstrate and then apply each of the skills, and we include extensive practice climbing with a top rope and rappelling. We also put emphasis on understanding protective systems, and each day we spend time working on knots, belaying fellow climbers, learning about different forms of protection, and establishing anchors.

We give thorough attention to the broader skills that are essential for a safe and successful mountaineering trip. We look at issues of route finding and assessment (both in terms of individual pitches and in the broader context of valley and mountain systems), and we devote time to the effective use of map, compass, and altimeter in route finding. We discuss mountain weather and the hazards of rock fall and ice fall, and we learn how to observe and analyze conditions and how they can affect our route choices. With this training, you should emerge from this program qualified to climb as a solid rope team member on significant alpine routes of moderate difficulty.

 

Climbing Skills

A rope team tops outs on the North Peak Couloir and continues to the summit

A rope team tops outs on the North Peak Couloir and continues to the summit. AAI Collection

  • Selection and use of personal equipment,ropes, knots, harnesses, technical gear for rock, snow and ice climbing. 
  • Techniques for belaying on rock, snow, and ice. 
  • Rappelling, free climbing techniques on low and high angle snow and rock, and self-arrest
  • The concept and application of the self-belay

 

General Knowledge

  • Leave-No-Trace-travel, camping, and climbing.
  • An introduction to alpine ecology.
  • Map and compass; reading, intersection, and triangulation.
  • Evaluation and prediction of mountain weather patterns.
  • Introduction to avalanche hazard evaluation.
  • Introduction to first aid, altitude illness, and evacuation of injured climbers.
  • Application of belaying and free climbing techniques to multi-pitch ascents.

 

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

Program Structure

A solid snow seat belay can be utilized for quick and efficient movement on alpine routes

A solid snow seat belay can be utilized for quick and efficient movement on alpine routes. Andrew Yasso

This course is designed to make the best use of easily accessible rock and snow climbing areas, and we teach all the fundamentals of rock and snow climbing in the context of major alpine climbs. As skills are taught, we make ascents that offer appropriate technical challenges to the participants.

For four days we cover snow climbing, anchors, belaying, and techniques for ice climbing, rock climbing and multi-pitch climbing skills. We then finish the course with an ascent which usually includes challenging snow and ice as well as sections of rock, thus requiring participants to apply all the skills they have been working on. Choices for the final ascent include Mt. Dana (13,057'), Mt. Abbott (13,704'), Mt. Gilbert (13,106'), and Red Slate (13,163'). They all demand a range of techniques and offer aesthetic routes to high summits that provide sweeping high Sierra views and provide a perfect finish to this intensive program.

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

Dates

This trip is currently unavailable.
We currently do not run this program. Alternatively, we do offer our Alpine Rock Climbing Part 1 & 2 Course in the Sierra, or you can check out our Alpinism 1 in Washington.

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

Cost and Details

  • Cost: $895 (minimum of 2 participants)
  • Low Ratio Cost: $1100 on a private 1:1 (Climber:Guide) 
  • Max Ratio - 4:1 or 8:2
  • Capacity - 8 

 

Prerequisites

  • Overnight backpacking experience.
  • Good physical condition.

 

Program Cost, Inclusions, and Exclusions

Inclusions:

  • Guide fees
  • All group technical climbing equipment
  • Permit and access fees

 

Exclusions: 

  • Personal equipment such as clothing, boots, personal climbing gear (e.g., harness, helmet), Sleeping bag, tent, etc. Personal climbing and camping gear is available for rent at a nominal charge. Transportation to the program's meeting location and during the program. We ask that you provide transportation for your guide from the point of rendezvous, and if there are other climbers in your program we encourage you to carpool. Lodging costs (if any) Meals Fees for changing air itineraries because of canceled or delayed programs
  • Gratuities to guides Personal health, baggage, and trip cancellation insurance

 

Rental Equipment

For beginners and other climbers who do not have their own personal climbing equipment, we offer rental equipment.  The following items are available to rent in the Sierra:

  • helmets
  • harnesses
  • ice axes
  • crampons
  • ice tools
  • tents
  • avalanche gear (beacon/probe/shovel)
  • cooking gear (stove/pot/fuel)
  • snowshoes
  • backpacks

 

Please note that we do not rent boots, sleeping bags or sleeping pads in the Sierra; your best option if you need this gear for your course is to contact Wilson's East Side Sports in Bishop, CA, or Mammoth Mountaineering in Mammoth Lakes, CA.  Regardless of what you need, please be sure to alert all parties of your rental needs as soon as possible.

Sierra Intro to Mountaineering

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