Boulder and the surrounding areas are home to literally thousands of rock routes. From Dream Canyon’s China Doll (II, 5.14-) to the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron (II, 5.6) there is an incredible spectrum of offerings…where does one even start? In this article we’ll recommend climbs at each grade from 5.6 to 5.12 that you may not have heard of. Recommendations are made on the basis of quality, and not to be taken as routes that are necessarily the best protected climbs.
5.6
West Chimney to Icarus, Eldorado Canyon (4-5 pitches, 5.6R)
Two shorter “approach pitches” of 5.6 via the West Chimney (and yes, it is an actual chimney) takes climbers to a scrambling pitch to the base of Icarus. The three pitches of Icarus are fun, airy, and the final pitch is the same as the Yellow Spur- an incredible arete high above the Canyon floor. Climbers should be confident climbing 5.6 with poor protection (the final pitch is where the “R” rating comes from).
5.7
North Face Center, Boulder Canyon (2-3 pitches, 5.7+)
This shady climb is perfect for those hot summer days as it faces North. Take a fun tyrolean traverse across Boulder Creek to clean granite crack climbing for 2-3 pitches depending on how one pitches it out. The descent is a short and amicable walk-off.
5.8
Gambit, Eldorado Canyon (4 pitches, 5.8)
Gambit offers a variety of different climbing styles for 4 pitches up Shirttail peak- the highest point in Eldorado Canyon. It is indeed a further walk than other Eldorado canyon routes but 45 minutes is well worth this high quality climb.
5.9
Green Spur, Eldorado Canyon (4-5 pitches, 5.9)
The Yellow Spur gets a ton of attention, and rightfully so, but the Green Spur is also a high quality classic and rarely has the same crowds.
5.10
Outer Space, Eldorado Canyon (4 pitches, 5.10)
This undisputed classic protects (relatively) quite well with modern trad gear and should not be missed for competent 5.10 trad leaders. Start on the Bastille Crack for two pitches before busting right on a wild traverse to two pitches of extremely exposed climbing.
5.11
Vertigo, Eldorado Canyon (4 pitches, 5.11b)
This well-protected climb offers truly classic climbing in Eldorado Canyon with a beautiful dihedral and an imposing roof that offers unparalleled exposure.
5.12
Thunderdome, Boulder Canyon (1 pitch, 5.12-)
This one pitch classic offers quality granite crack climbing on trad gear and is a must for the grade.
One final recommendation!
Hands of Destiny, Boulder Canyon (2 pitches, 5.12+)
This gem was first climbed on trad gear and later retro-bolted, making it quite popular present day for those climbing at the grade.
This list is the tip of the tip of the iceberg- there are too many routes to climb in a single lifetime!
