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Rock Climbing, Advanced Skills

Adaptive Climbing Techniques

American Alpine Institute
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Oregon State University put together a good primer on how to manage adaptive climbers. They include three different systems in the following video:

  1. 5:1 System (for people who have limited strength)
  2. Pull-Up Bar Ascender (for people who don’t have use of their legs)
  3. Wheelchair Transfer to a Rappel (for people who don’t have use of their legs)

There’s some specialized equipment used in this video, but most of it is reasonably priced.

Some side notes:

  1. An MMO is a munter-mule overhand.
  2. The 5:1 is set-up upside down, it’s a 4:1. It should also be noted that with a 5:1 you have to belay 5-feet of rope for every foot the climber moves. That’s why she’s working so hard
  3. An Aztek Kit is a rope rescue tool that is exactly the same as the 5:1 she created earlier in the video. If it’s set-up upside down, it’s a 4:1.

This video isn’t perfect. There are some things that could be done a little better here or there, but it is an excellent introduction to adaptive climbing and the way a few systems work in that world.
–Jason D. Martin

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