As winter descends on the Cascades, I find myself thinking about one of my favorite winter alpine climbs in the Pacific Northwest. The North Face of Chair Peak is a classic winter ascent that can easily be done in a day. It has a beautiful alpine face that gets covered in snow. The freeze thaw cycle turns the face from powder on rock to a spectacular three pitch alpine line.
The route is moderate and with the exception of one ten foot step, the bulk of it is between fifty and sixty-five degrees. That one step is perhaps eighty degrees, but it is very short and sometimes isn’t even iced up. The first time I climbed the peak, that last section was 5.6 rock.
Chair Peak Approach Route
Approaching Chair Peak. The face in the center is the east face
To get to the north face, you must drop over the saddle on the right.
The approach to this climb is relatively straight forward. You simply park at the Alpental Ski Area and then make your way up the Alpental Valley to the end, where Chair Peak oversees the bowl beneath it.
(Click on the image to view a larger version.)
This photo shows the north face on the righthand side and the
two variations that one can take on the northeast buttress which
The descent off the mountain is straightforward. A couple of rappels bring you down a gully on the south side of the east face.
On a short winter day, you really can’t beat an outing on Chair Peak!
–Jason D. Martin