The Climber Pickoff

A climber pickoff is essentially the same technique a belayer can use to rescue an injured lead climber who cannot be lowered. The primary difference in a top-rope situation is that the system is built from a solid anchor rather than relying on the single piece of protection that held a leader’s fall.

The pickoff uses a counterbalance ascent and rappel technique and requires minimal equipment. In essence, the instructor ascends the rope to the climber, connects the climber to the instructor, and then rappels with them.

Equipment

You will need:

• 1 double-length (48-inch) sling
• 1 locking carabiner
• 1 friction-hitch cord (6 mm or 7 mm soft nylon cord, approximately 4 feet long), tied into a sling with a double fisherman’s knot. Commercially manufactured friction-hitch slings, such as the Sterling HollowBlock, may also be used.

Procedure with a GriGri

1. Tie a backup knot.
   Tie an overhand loop in the brake strand below the GriGri.
2. Attach the friction hitch.
   Tie a friction hitch, such as a Klemheist or Prusik, around the load strand of the rope running to the climber. Attach the double-length sling to the friction hitch with the locking carabiner.
3. Ascend the rope.
   Slide the friction hitch upward until you can place your foot in the sling with your knee bent approximately 90 degrees. Tie a knot in the sling to shorten it if necessary.
   Stand up in the sling while simultaneously pulling slack through the GriGri by pulling upward on the brake strand. Then sit back into the harness and hang from the GriGri. Continue alternating between standing in the sling and hanging from the GriGri, keeping the system tight.
   Approximately every 2 meters (6 feet), tie an overhand-loop backup knot in the brake strand below the GriGri.
4. Connect to the climber.
   Once you reach the climber, transfer the friction hitch from the instructor’s side of the rope to the rope above the climber.
   Take the double-length sling and thread it basket-style through your belay loop. Clip both ends of the sling into the locking carabiner attached to the friction hitch.
   The position of the friction hitch determines the relative position of the climber during the descent. If the friction hitch is positioned high above the climber, the climber will remain approximately at that position while you rappel. If the friction hitch is positioned just above the climber’s tie-in knot, the climber will move upward and slightly above the instructor during the descent.
5. Rappel with the climber.
   Rappel using the GriGri, removing the backup knots as you descend. Maintain control of the system throughout the descent and keep the connection between the instructor and climber appropriately tensioned.

If the climber is injured, then you can place the climber’s rope under your shoulder and stand up on the face of the rock, pushing them away. This is incredibly uncomfortable, but will give them some relief if they have a lower leg injury.