When you’re climbing outdoors and see a hold or section of rock marked with an X, take it seriously.
An X is typically used to identify a loose, damaged, or otherwise unsafe feature. It may look perfectly solid, but that doesn’t mean it will stay attached when you put your full body weight on it. Pulling on questionable rock can cause a hold to break loose—and the consequences can extend well beyond the climber.
A chunk of rock can fall down the route and potentially strike a climber, belayer, or other person below. In a crowded climbing area, even a relatively small piece of rock can cause a serious injury. And if the hold breaks while you’re climbing, the resulting fall can create another hazard.
Don’t test an X-marked hold. Don’t pull on it “just to see if it’s solid.” Don’t use it for protection, and don’t place gear immediately beside or behind questionable rock. Instead, find another way around the feature and report the problem to the local route steward or climbing organization if appropriate.
Outdoor climbing requires more than movement skills. As climbers, we need to learn how to assess the rock we’re climbing and recognize features that may not be as solid as they appear.
Develop Good Rock Judgment
This is particularly important when transitioning from indoor climbing to the outdoors. Gym holds are manufactured, inspected, and attached to the wall. Outdoor holds are often pieces of the mountain itself—and mountains don’t come with a quality-control department.
Learning to identify loose rock, questionable holds, unstable blocks, and other objective hazards is an important part of becoming a competent outdoor climber.
At the American Alpine Institute, our climbing programs emphasize not only movement and technical skills, but also the judgment needed to climb safely in real-world environments. Our guides teach students how to evaluate rock, recognize hazards, manage exposure, and make informed decisions about where—and where not—to climb.
Because sometimes good climbing judgment means knowing when not to pull on the sketchy thing.