In the world of trad climbing, “cleaning” refers to the follower removing the gear the leader placed and attaching it to their own harness. While it sounds simple, many climbers accidentally drop expensive nuts or cams because they fumbled the clip.
The “Rock to Rope” method is the gold standard for security. It ensures that the piece of gear is always attached to something secure (either the rock or the rope/harness) during the entire transfer process.
The Step-by-Step Process
When you reach a piece of gear, don’t just yank it out. Follow this sequence to ensure it never sees the forest floor:
- The Lead: For this system to work, the leader will have to have a “cam carabiner” and a sling or draw carabiner. When the piece is placed, the cam carabiner remains on the cam and the draw is also clipped to the cam. This allows for an extra carabiner in the cleaning.
- The Setup: Take the piece out of the crack. Do not unclip it from the rope.
- The Racking: While the gear is still securely attached to the rope, clip it to your harness.
- The Clean: Once the gear is free, it’s already safely on your harness. You can then unclip the rope side of the draw and continue climbing.
Why This Method Works
Mental Focus: Knowing the gear is “safe” allows you to focus on the technical move of removing it, rather than the wildly expensive price tag of the Camalot you’re holding.
Gravity Defiance: If you fumble a cam while pulling it out of a crack, it doesn’t fall 100 feet; it just dangles from the rope.