Sulphide, Fisher Chimneys, and the North Face
Mt. Shuksan is one of the Pacific Northwest’s most iconic peaks, drawing climbers from around the world. From glacier travel to technical rock routes and alpine ice climbing, its diverse terrain offers challenges and thrills for every level of mountaineer.
Sulphide Glacier
Grade III, 5.2, 30 Degree Snow/Ice,
3 or 4 Days
The Sulphide Glacier offers an ascent within the grasp of most climbers, but this is no “tourist route.” Different climbing problems must be overcome at different periods during the season, and there are always a variety of challenges on both rock and ice.
This is the route that we take for our public Shuksan Skills and Climb program. We have a 3-day option for those with rock climbing experience and a 4-day option for those without.
Fisher Chimneys
Grade III, 5.2, 50 Degree Snow/Ice
3 Days
Situated near the awesome hanging ice of the Curtis Glacier, the Fisher Chimneys route is a full-value climb. The line has a significant amount of third and fourth-class terrain, glacier travel, and steep snow and ice climbing. The ascent requires one to dig deeply into the mountaineer’s toolkit to pull out the skills required to climb this multifaceted route.
The Fisher Chimneys route is an excellent step up from a straight alpine rock climb or a straight glacier climb. It is an intermediate route that will provide a significant challenge to those who are ready to advance to the next level of climbing.
North Face
Grade IV, 5.2, 55 Degree Snow/Ice
Summit Carry-Over, 3 Days
The North Face of Mount Shuksan is a classic steep alpine objective. This intermediate to advanced-level climb is almost on par with an Alaskan experience. Climbers are required to carry all of their equipment and gear up and over the mountain. Such a “mini-expedition” provides an excellent training objective to prepare for the steep north faces throughout the great ranges of the world.
The North Face of Shuksan is classic in another way. Those who choose to take it on experience the heart of Cascade adventure climbing. This is a big climb that is both physically and technically demanding. Success on such a grand route doesn’t come easily, but when it comes, the reward is that much greater.
