Guided Alpine Rock Climbing in the Bugaboos, BC

Overview

Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park encompasses scores of beautiful spires, all providing classic alpine routes on sweeping faces and elegantly defined ridges of high quality granite. The spires rise from the midst of large glaciers, and all approaches and descents involve a combination of rock, snow, and ice, as well as crevasse field travel. The beauty of these mountains is rivaled only by a few of the world's ranges, and both their challenge and their aesthetics are augmented by their wilderness setting.

Climbing in the Bugaboos with Garry Blevins from Andrew Yasso on Vimeo.

Access to the mountains is by a two-hour drive south and then west of Golden, British Columbia, half on a paved and half on a dirt road. A short, but steep hike, brings us to the Alpine Club of Canada's hut. After an additional 45 minutes, we arrive at Applebee, a beautiful granite and meadow-covered knob much closer to the spires and surrounded by excellent bouldering. From this 8000-foot camp, climbs ranging from non-technical, to mid fifth-class, to Grade V, 5.10's are all within reach. There are lots of options and it's easy to choose a series of ascents to match skills at any level.

Pigeon Spire, South Howser Tower, Bugaboo Spire, and Snowpatch Spire all conjure up some of the great moments in the history of North American alpine climbing. They deserve a place high on the priority list of anyone with an attraction to wilderness setting and a love of the classic alpine environment.

Guided Alpine Rock Climbing in the Bugaboos, BC

Suggested Routes

Rappelling down after another successful climb of a classic Bugaboo Spire. Andrew Yasso

Pigeon Spire

East Face: Grade IV, 5.10
West Ridge: Grade II, 5.2

Bugaboo Spire

NE Ridge: Grade IV, 5.7
Kain Route (S Ridge): Grade III, 5.6

South Howser Tower

West Buttress: Grade V, 5.10a

Crescent Spire

McTech Arete: Grade III, 5.10
Lion's Way: Grade II+, 5.6

Snowpatch Spire

Sunshine Route: Grade IV, 5.10c
SE Corner: Grade IV, 5.8
West Face: Grade IV, 5.8

Guided Alpine Rock Climbing in the Bugaboos, BC

Details

Max Ratio - 2:1 (Climber:Guide)

Capacity - 4

Prerequisites

Backpacking and intermediate rock climbing experience

Program Cost Inclusions and Exclusions

Big smiles on big alpine rock climbs. Dawn Glanc

Inclusions: Included in the course cost is group technical climbing equipment (personal climbing equipment is available for rent at a nominal charge), camping fees, guide travel time to the course location, all permit fees, and the guide wage.

Exclusions: Not included in the course cost is cost of transportation to and from the course location for you and your guide, all personal clothing and climbing gear (including crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, tent, etc), gratuities for the guide, meals while on the course, or travel insurance.

If you are interested in staying at the Kain Hut instead of camping, you are welcome to pay for the nightly fee yourself, and we will cover the guide's stay.

Getting to the Bugaboos

There are a few options for getting you and your guide to the Bugaboos:

Meet the guide in Bellingham the day before your course and drive your own vehicle - no extra cost
Meet the guide somewhere between Bellingham and the Bugaboos - call for price

Due to NAFTA and Border Regulations, you must to meet your guide in the United States and cross the Border with them. If the guide tries to cross without you, they could be detained, refused entry, and/or could possibly loose their ability to travel to Canada again in the future. It could also endanger our ability to guide trips in this beautiful area in the future.